Pinkerton Islands to Robbers Passage

“Get up, I just spotted another bear and there is a uncharted rock several yards off our port beam”, said Karen as she woke me. The rock was the bad news; the sunshine was the good news. We were at plus 2.5 feet and the 6 inches of a pointed rock was visible and uncomfortably close. We had apparently passed on either side of this potential hull penetrator twice. Once when we entered and a second time when I did my anchor circle checking the amount of water we had under the boat.

To prevent us from swinging very much, I had put another 80 feet of rode over the bow after attaching the bridle. That turned out to be a good decision, because the rock was certainly within our normal swing circle.

I marked the location of the rock on our electronic charts for our next visit and to also let NOAA know what we found. I got busy with making breakfast. After breakfast I looked out and the rock had moved. Good news our rock was no longer a rock! Out came the binoculars and upon close inspection, the rock was now a floating piece of wood. That was the best impression of a rock I have ever witnessed. Usually these wood rocks are quickly revealed by their movement. However, this morning was so calm with no wind so the “wood-rock” held its position long enough to fake us out.

The "wood-rock"

All our neighbors left and we were underway by 10:30am. The route today was mostly designed as a sightseeing tour with our first destination being Eagle Nook Lodge in Vernon Bay.

Most of the traffic we saw comprised small fishing boats that, like us, were enjoying the sunny and bright weather.

As we headed up Imperial Eagle Channel, a humpback whale was breaching not far from George Rock. We watched a while before continuing on. We liked Jane-Franks Bay because it was well protected and we thought that the Eagle Nook Lodge looked great. However its small dock was full, so we did not stop and check it out in person. We turned west and headed down Imperial Eagle Channel in some lumps, so on went the stabilizers.

Eagle Nook Lodge

A "humpy" passes us by

A pretty day in Imperial Eagle Channel

Our destination was the Port Alberni Yacht Club outstation on Fleming Island in Robbers Pass. We were a little concerned because it is almost Labor Day weekend and the visitor dock was full. But as we sat scoping out the situation, someone came out and happily directed us to the members’ dock.

Alaskan Dream on the docks at the Port Alberni Yacht Club

This turned out to be a great place to stop. The Yacht Club was picture perfect with all the work was done by members. There was a clubhouse with grills and power on the docks that was for members only. They had a great fish cleaning station and showers for only 2.00CA with no time limit.

Wendy of Bad Attitude gave us the rundown of the facilities. Our moorage was one dollar per foot but we were happy to be there. We chatted with some nice folks at on Eagles Nest, a small Bayliner fishing boat that is based out of Bellevue and the folks on a Pacific Trawler named Tenacious from Orcas Island. Everyone is here to go fishing in the big holiday tournament this weekend.

It was a very welcoming group. There is a guesthouse for members decorated with lots of flowers. We walked the extremely pretty and well maintained trail up to the “Crows Nest” where you back over the club docks. From that vantage point we explored the rest of the trail enjoying the scenery on both sides of the island.

The view from the "Crows Nest"

Karen enjoying the well maintained paths

After our walk, we enjoyed a beer on the flybridge of Alaskan Dream. We watched the small fishing boats come through the pass, sending a little motion our way on the docks. Pork tenderloin, mashed sweet potatoes and another episode of LOST topped off our quiet evening. 

Overlooking the Imperial Eagle Channel

Peaceful, that's why we do this

A little treasure on the West Coast

Joe’s Bay to Pinkerton Islands

Cloudy start to the morning

Today was a battle between the sun and the clouds. When I got up shortly after sunrise, there was a yellow glow to the eastern sky. You could see the warmth of the sun trying to break through the low ceiling.

Not long after, the rain started. As we enjoyed a slow leisurely morning the rain continued — sometimes a light mist, sometimes a heavy rain.

The rain finally gave way to grey skies and the kayakers started to appear so we decided to explore the Broken Islands from the comfort of Alaskan Dream. 

I don't understand the paddleboard out here in the wilderness

We took a circuitous route to our planned anchorage in Jarvis Lagoon. Along our route we saw seals, sea lions, humpbacks and all manner of kayakers, both paddling and on the beach at the various camp sites that dot the islands. As we rounded Hand Island, we saw a rather large ship. It was similar in configuration to the Uchuck III we had seen in Friendly Cove.

Karen speculated that it was the M/V Frances Barkley . She had read that that ship brought in kayakers and dropped them at the Sechelt Lodge as the starting point for their explorations of the Broken Group. We turned and followed the ship to its landing at the lodge. They dropped off a few passengers and cargo and as we stopped Alaskan Dream near the Lodge to watch, the captain put the Frances Barkley in reverse and continued his travels, as did we.

Frances Barkley at the Sechelt Lodge

The day before, we had followed White Tiger on the AIS as they entered Jarvis Lagoon. We had not seen their AIS signal since and suspected they may still be in the lagoon. As we entered the narrow and circuitous entrance, we spotted a sailboat in the outer anchorage. The woman on board looked as if she wanted to tell us something but we had neither the time nor the fairway to stop and chat. (we later learned she was trying to tell us it was FULL inside the lagoon!)  I was totally focused on making good our way through the challenging entrance. Once inside the lagoon we found White Tiger.

We cautiously toured  around the small lagoon, taking sounding to see if we could find a spot to anchor with enough room to keep us off the bottom at low tide and to also keep us away from White Tiger and her anchor and rode. It was tight, and while we might have found one spot, it was just too tight to be enjoyable. And...we were on a plus 10 foot tide and we were showing only 5 feet under the keel! So out we went.

Some of the locals give us the once over

Next we checked out the one boat anchorage on the east side of Jarvis and since it required a stern tie and there was already some fetch coming into the anchorage, we decided we would look elsewhere.

So our next destination was north, just outside the boundaries of the park. It was the Pinkerton Islands. Owing to the fact that these islands are not in the park, we knew from the guidebooks that there was a house and a float-house where we were going. Usually that rules out an anchorage because we are looking for more solitude. But we also noted that there were many small islands and lots of drying areas, two things that are very attractive to us for exploring.

Fishing camp in the Pinkertons

The Pinkertons were as advertised and we found a nice spot just past the float-house. There was a sport fisher stern-tied across the channel and one other boat anchored in the large anchorage shown in the Douglass and Douglass book, but they were out of sight once we were anchored. Soon, a small converted fishing vessel called the Shy Ann came into the area and went straight over to the small dock near the A-Frame house on the small central island.

Mobile "fishing camp" 

Pinkerton Island home

As low tide came upon us, I spotted a bear on the flats behind that small island. We saw the same black bear four times and he roamed the flats in search of dinner. Next time we’ll anchor in the eastern cove closer to the flats.

Dinner was halibut tacos...and then a peaceful night.

You can see the drying flats as low tide approaches

High tide covers it all up

Effingham Bay to Joe’s Bay

The morning is gray, cloudy and chilly. No one is up early except that sailboat that came in late last night. Can’t blame them, it is very dreary out there. Alaskan Dream is the second boat to weigh anchor. Our destination today is Joe’s Bay. On our travels we started to see lots of kayakers as they left the protection of their tents and explored in the light rain.

The entry into Joe’s Bay is easy and we dropped the hook in a quiet corner and settled in. It seemed like there was an endless caravan of kayakers passing by along with the occasional paddlers in a canoe.

When the rain took a break, we launched the dinghy and did a long exploration in and around the various islands, but was too rough to go far. We passed many kayaker camps with great beaches and campsites, but were very happy to return to dry and warm Alaskan Dream.

Exploring in and around Joe's Bay

An elaborate Inukshuk at one of the kayak camps

As the kayakers paddled past, Karen and I speculated that we could sell each and every one of them a hot shower for $10. A few stopped to talk, and while they were in good spirits, they looked cold and drenched to the bone.

Karen and I passed the afternoon watching a promotional DVD from Fleming showing Tony Fleming’s boat Venture exploring the Galapagos Islands. On a damp day, the southern ocean looks pretty inviting. Diner was Salmon Gorgonzola. We sourced our salmon from Good God Lobster in Ketchikan. They are always a good source of local fish. Another episode of LOST and a quiet night topped off our stay at Joe’s Bay. 

Sunset at Joe's Bay

Ucluelet to Effingham Bay

Weather is predicted to be winds 20-25 with 3 meter seas and most of the boats on the docks are still here as we make breakfast. The whale watching boats on channel 61A are complaining about the ride and not many animals in sight. Apparently the whales don’t like to come into the shallow water when the swells are present. Can you blame them?

The busy working docks at Ucluelet

Our plan is to cast off about 11am. The GRIB weather files are predicting that the winds should ease about then, and as we have a short trip today over to the Broken Group of islands, we figured we could put up with some weather for the hour or so it takes to cross.

Karen is ready to go

The whale watching boats confirmed the winds were easing, but that the swells were increasing. That is exactly what we found. It was a hobby horse ride with a few rollers on the beam thrown in to keep it interesting. Karen was wedged into the corner of the galley and refused to look at the larger swells from the beam.

The fish boats unload their holds as we depart Ucluelet

Fortunately it was only an hour’s ride over to the Broken Group and as we worked our way in between the islands and enter the Group, the swells calmed.

Effingham Bay is the largest anchorage in the Broken Group and affords the most protection in all weather, so that is where we are headed. It was not our original plan, but until things calm down some, we will take refuge here. Alaskan Dream was the first boat to anchor in the bay, but we expect more as the afternoon and evening passes.

Calm Effingham Bay

Three boats also made Effingham Bay their choice, with a fifth sailboat coming in at last light.

We have room for a late arrival

Another episode of LOST, Season Three capped the night after a dinner of Karen’s favorite pizza. I have gotten pretty good at making pizza from scratch including the dough. By making the dough in advance as well as some of the ingredients such as caramelized onions and sirloin steak, it becomes an easy meal to put together. Just throw on some cheese, veggies and whatever else strikes a chord. Bake it for 14 minutes and top it off with Fig Balsamic Glaze and you have a happy crew.

Ucluelet, Lay Day

Karen and I enjoyed a quiet night at the docks and were slow to get going in the morning. I walked up to the Wharfinger’s  office to grab some Wi-Fi so I could download the latest GRIB weather files. We gave the boat a good cleaning before we walked into town. Our goal was to visit a native art gallery but after a 20 minute walk, we found the galley closed despite the website that said it was open on Sundays.

Fishing resort housed in an old ship. The fishing boats are out.

The fishing fleet has returned. 

The Co-Op is a great resource

Disappointed, we headed back to the CO-OP to grab a few last-minute supplies. The butcher at the CO-OP has his own smoker and sells his delicious bacon at the CO-OP. I did not try his other offerings, but if they are anything like the bacon, I know I would like them. To our surprise, when we rounded one corner in a residential neighborhood,  we encountered two deer in someone’s yard, casually grazing on the fresh-cut grass (Note the open front door...maybe the deer live there?) We were also bummed that Ukee Dogs was closed. Oh well, next time we'll get ourselves one of the those famous Ukee Dogs.

Not much to eat here

Karen ogles the Ukee Dog shop

52 steps down to the working docks on the main inlet to Ucluelet

The town of Ucluelet has a great vibe

It would not be a proper provisioning stop with a visit to the liquor store

I took advantage of our time in port to make bread, a new batch of pancake mix and a fresh batch of pizza dough. To save some time tomorrow, I also cooked the flank steak and made caramelized onions for the pizza. After all that hard work, we visited the Floathouse restaurant at the end of the docks for a beer. Our decision to sit outside did not work out as the prevailing wind made our spot a bit chilly, such that it eventually drove us off.

The Floathouase Restaurant at the Ucluelet docks

For dinner we had glazed pork tenderloin accompanied by rosemary roasted potatoes followed by yet another episode of LOST.