Montague Harbour to Telegraph Harbour

The weather finally remembered we were cruising the Pacific Northwest.

After an almost suspicious run of blue skies and sunshine, the clouds returned this morning as we pointed OceanFlyer north toward Telegraph Harbour. Not threatening weather by any means, just that familiar soft grey ceiling that somehow makes the Gulf Islands feel even more like themselves.

It has been a very long time since our last visit to Telegraph Harbour Marina, and arriving felt a bit like reconnecting with an old cruising friend. For us, it serves as the perfect staging point for tomorrow’s early run through Dodd Narrows at slack water — one of those passages that tends to shape the entire next day’s schedule.

Telegraph Harbour itself remains every bit as charming as we remembered. The marina has that classic Gulf Islands feel: relaxed, welcoming, and built around the simple pleasures of cruising life. Shoreside there is a small store, a coffee snack shop, light fare, and plenty of inviting spots to simply sit and watch the harbor activity drift by. The grounds are beautifully maintained, and families will appreciate the playground areas scattered about the property.

Ownership changed hands a few years ago, but the investment in improvements is easy to see. This season they are upgrading dock power service and overhauling the marina WiFi — two projects every cruiser can appreciate.

One of the hidden pleasures here is just a short walk from the marina. About three-tenths of a mile up the road sits the seasonal Howling Wolf Farm Market. Small, self-serve, and unmistakably local, it offers fresh vegetables, baked goods both sweet and savory, and the sort of treats that somehow never make it back to the boat without being sampled along the way.

Tomorrow: Dodd Narrows. Which means tonight we set the alarms for an early departure.

Montague Harbour Lay Day

Some cruising days are made for covering miles. Others are made for slowing down and appreciating exactly where you are tied up.

Today was firmly the latter.

With OceanFlyer settled comfortably in Montague Harbour, we launched the dinghy and headed ashore to spend the morning walking through Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park — one of the most thoughtfully maintained marine parks anywhere on the coast.

The trail begins just beyond the park dock, winding through towering trees and shaded forest paths that immediately remind you why this park remains such a favorite among Pacific Northwest cruisers. The campsites are remarkably well kept, each one feeling carefully considered rather than simply placed in the woods. Elevated tent platforms, concrete pads beneath the picnic tables, purpose-built fire pits, plentiful fresh water, and spotless washrooms all speak to a park system that still takes real pride in the details.

There is even a large covered pavilion that looks perfectly suited for everything from family gatherings to the sort of rainy-evening potluck that becomes legendary among boaters.

The well-maintained trail eventually leads to the shell beach along the north cove, always one of the highlights of the park. Even in the quieter shoulder season, it is easy to picture the shoreline filled with families and kayaks during the height of summer. We wandered along the beach for a while before picking up the trail again at the northwest corner of the park.

the “north shore” beach on grAY PENNINSULA with montague harbour in the distance

As the path climbed and curved along the shoreline, strategically placed benches invited the sort of pauses that are impossible to resist. A few minutes here. Another few there. The kind of unhurried stops that become the real rhythm of a lay day.

karen stakes her claim at montague harbour provincial park

By the time we completed our leisurely circumnavigation of the park, lunchtime had arrived — which made the next decision very easy.

Back at the Crane & Robin, we settled in for two generously sized salads, each topped with a perfectly grilled salmon fillet. Simple food, done properly, somehow always tastes better after a morning spent walking coastal trails.

yummy lunch at the Crane & Robin

Not every memorable cruising day requires the engines to be running.

mother nature does it again, what show off

Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour

The weather continues to steal the show on this trip. I hesitate to keep leading with it, but when every day delivers blue skies, calm seas, and barely a whisper of wind, it becomes impossible to ignore. We’ve honestly lost track of how many consecutive days we’ve enjoyed this stretch of postcard-perfect Pacific Northwest cruising weather.

the unmistakable turn point lighthouse

Today’s run from Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour was about as straightforward as passages come. Point the bow north, settle into an easy rhythm, and prepare for the usual ritual of clearing Canadian Customs.

Or so we thought.

Just after crossing the U.S./Canadian border and reaching for the phone to begin the customs check-in process, a United States Coast Guard patrol vessel eased alongside and hailed OceanFlyer.

Their intention was to board us, so we throttled back to a slow cruise and held our course while they came alongside.

As it turned out, this wasn’t exactly a first meeting.

Back in February we had been boarded by this very same crew — including one Canadian Customs officer — so what could have felt tense instead carried the tone of an unexpected reunion on the water. The officers were friendly, professional, and efficient, and before long they completed their inspection and returned to their vessel with a wave and a few smiles.

With that bit of excitement behind us, we finally completed our Canadian customs check-in by phone and continued north toward Montague.

The remainder of the passage delivered the usual organized chaos around Active Pass and Navy Channel. Traffic was particularly lively today. At one point we counted five ferries in view simultaneously, all threading through the channels with their usual sense of urgency. Add in a large Seaspan transporter and a scattering of sailboats, and there was plenty of entertainment as we worked our way into the lower reaches of Trincomali Channel.

Arriving at Montague Harbour, we found things still comfortably in shoulder-season mode. Mooring balls were occupied mostly by sailboats, along with a handful of fellow early-season cruisers clearly enjoying this rare run of settled weather as much as we were.

An early dinner at the Crane & Robin was, as always, one of those simple cruising pleasures that never disappoints. Afterwards, a stop into the little store revealed shelves freshly stocked with an impressively deep selection of actual books — paper books, no less.

Perhaps this island has quietly become a refuge for the last generation of true page-turners.

pre-season sunset in Montague Harbour

we never get tired of the beauty of pacific northwest cruising

Jones Island to Westcott Bay

Remember that peaceful, postcard-perfect Jones Island from yesterday?

Well… today had other plans.

By mid-morning, as the overnight cruisers quietly slipped away from the dock, a Bayliner 4788 came rumbling in and tied up opposite OceanFlyer. Four guys climbed ashore carrying oversized drink cups — never a subtle sign aboard a cruising dock.

Within minutes they informed the very polite Ranger Tug captain nearby that more boats were coming… along with “lots of dudes.”

At that point, discretion seemed the better part of seamanship, so I retreated to the salon to work on the blog.

Not long afterward, the anchorage was treated to what can only be described as a full-contact assault on Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville. It was spectacularly terrible. Jimmy Buffett could not have rolled any faster in his grave.

Sensing that Jones Island’s peaceful chapter had officially closed, we slipped the lines and pointed OceanFlyer toward Westcott Bay.

Westcott has long been one of our favorite stops in the San Juan Islands. Overshadowed by neighboring Garrison Bay and the ever-popular English Camp, Westcott somehow remains calmer, quieter, and wonderfully understated.

That’s exactly why we like it.

From our anchorage, it’s only a short dinghy ride to English Camp and even closer to Westcott Bay Shellfish Co., home to the freshest oysters we’ve ever eaten.

Now, Karen and I are not exactly oyster people.

Or at least we weren’t.

But these oysters are so impossibly fresh — and prepared so well — that somehow we keep returning year after year. Pacific Northwest cruising has a way of changing your standards.

This year, Westcott also served as our rendezvous point with our friends aboard Navigator, a beautiful Kadey-Krogen 48.

Over the next couple of days we traded dinners aboard each other’s boats, wandered the grounds of English Camp, and took on one of the most difficult puzzles I have ever encountered. Cruisers will understand: somehow a thousand-piece puzzle becomes a subtle competitive event untill your brain melts and eyes water.

Good friends, calm water, and shared meals aboard — hard to improve on that.

DID I MENTION THAT THE WEATHER WAS PERFECT IN WESTCOTT BAY

Next stop: the Puget Sound Grand Banks Owners Association 25th Anniversary Rendezvous in Roche Harbor.

Bellingham to Jones Island — A Surprisingly Quiet Gem

With a flawless forecast stretching out in front of us, we cast off from Bellingham and pointed the bow toward Jones Island State Park.

The dock-talk crowd thought we were nuts.

“On a day like this? Jones will be packed.”
“Don’t even bother—no chance at dock space.”

They weren’t wrong—on paper. Bluebird skies in the San Juans usually mean every cruiser within range descends on Jones. We fully expected to get skunked.

The Arrival Surprise

As we eased into the east cove, we scanned the dock…

• One cruising boat on the east side

• Three small boats on the west

• No obvious space for OceanFlyer

We idled off the dock, waiting it out. Then, a bit of quiet choreography:

A group returned from shore, hopped into their 18-foot runabout, and headed out. Almost immediately, another small boat shifted position—just enough.

That was our opening.

Making Room

We slid in and tied up, leaving the forward third of OceanFlyer hanging past the end of the dock to maximize space for whoever came next.

jones island is always a favorite

And then came the real surprise:

Even the mooring balls were empty.

On a day that should’ve been standing-room-only, Jones Island felt… almost private.

Luck? Maybe.
Or maybe the fleet had other plans.

A Walk Worth Slowing Down For

One of the joys of Jones is its shoreline trail, especially along the south side.

• Sweeping views of passing boats

• Quiet coves and weathered rock

• That unmistakable San Juan mix of wind, water, and evergreens

with settled weather, the north cove was full

another adventurer taking advantage of the calm seas

The short loop is just over a mile—but we took our time. About an hour, unhurried, stopping often. Around here, you don’t rush scenery.

There’s also the “difficult” trail up the island’s northwest lobe. The switchbacks on the way up will get your attention, but the descent? Worth every step.

Why So Quiet?

If you had to guess, the answer was blowing right at us:

A steady northerly.

That wind pushes a bit of fetch into the north cove, making things lumpy until it settles. On days like that, many cruisers opt for the south anchorage instead—more protected, but it comes with a tradeoff:

• Two mooring balls (this season)

• Dinghy ride ashore

• Beach landing required

For some, that’s enough to tip the scales.

Final Thought

Jones Island on a perfect-weather weekend—with open dock space and empty moorings—feels a bit like magic.

It happens… just not often.

And when it does, you take it, tie up, and go for a long walk.