Bacchante Bay to Ucluelet

Today we are taking advantage of the good weather to head directly to  Ucluelet. The course we chose was out through Hayden Pass rather than give Sulfur Pass a try because Karen overruled Bob for the simpler route. Our departure at 7:09 AM was greeted by bright, sunny clear skies. Oh yes...did we mention we were all alone last night?

Great morning in Bacchante Bay

Karen took the first leg and I relieved her abeam Lennard Island. She spent her “off-duty” time updating our logbook. We stayed quite close the shore because it was a calm day, we had hardly a ripple on the surface. Saw some other boats and a handful of fishing boats. We spotted Tofino from afar and were able to find the Wickaninnish Inn and Long Beach through the binoculars. The ride turned a bit “rolly”, so Karen stopped reading, complaining that the motion was making her feel sick. However, the motion was not so bad that she refused my offer of meatloaf sandwiches for lunch !

Another lighthouse...I've lost track

As we approached Ucluelet, we felt the effects of the Southeast winds as they came up. Took pictures of Amphitrite point, lots of small fishing boats. The long channel to Ucluelet is narrow but very well marked.  Almost at the end of the channel, we turned west and entered the small boat boat basin and found a spot on the docks. Some nice folks grabbed the lines which helped us out a lot,  as the wind was pushing Alaskan Dream off the docks.

Our walk to the wharfinger’s office found him gone, so we continued up to the town to see what we could find. We found the liquor store (a good one), the convenience store  (OK) and the Co-Op that was awesome. But most importantly, we found Norwood’s, the restaurant Karen had researched as the best in town and where we have reservations tonight at “The Chef’s Table”.

Back at the boat, we relaxed on the flybridge to watch lots of boats come in and find an opening on the docks. On the way to dinner, we carried our garbage up to the dumpster and also located the wharfinger on his bike. So we took a moment to check in and pay our moorage.

Our “table” at Norwood’s was a couple of high comfortable chairs in front of the open kitchen at a little bar overlooking all the food prep. It was amazing eye candy for both of us and everyone was so nice. We enjoyed “Voluptuous” wine from British Columbia. I enjoyed Korean pork tacos as a starter followed by great salmon and Karen devoured scallops and the most amazing octopus with truffle mashed potatoes and Asian chili sauce followed by some local halibut for her entree. Dessert for me was a chocolate mousse with molten caramel inside and Karen had Goat cheese cheesecake. Mega-super yummy! This restaurant can stand up to anything in any big city, East or West coast.

Karen slept through yet another episode of LOST! 

Bottleneck Cove to Bacchante Bay

Our quiet night turned into a beautiful morning with no wind and clear skies. We are in no hurry to get going today because our next destination, Bacchante Bay, is only 12 miles away. The sailboat that shared the cove with us left as I was making breakfast, leaving us alone to enjoy the morning.

Calm morning in Bottleneck Cove

While the winds were reported to be approaching 25 knots not far from us in the ocean, our passage along the inside was calm. There was not much to see along the way except for the beauty of this wonderful part of the country. We poked our nose into the small bay in front of the Megin River before continuing our journey.

Not the normal water color

As we approached Bacchante Bay, the water turned noticeably brown and then a very red-brown. There must be more than just tannin that comes from the river at the head of the bay. The soil must contain some iron ore to develop such a noticeable reddish tint. We also wondered if it could be a red algae bloom; the so called “Red Tide”. We anchored abeam a small rock at the head of the bay populated with seals. They were clinging to the last little bits of the rock as it was covered by the rising tide.

We waited until a little after half high tide and launch the dinghy in hopes of going up Watta Creek. It was hard to find a way into the creek and we explored a few different ways of getting over a shallow bar. But we did not make it more than three quarters of a mile up the river before being stopped by rocks. We probably could have made it in the kayaks and or by adjusting our time a little later in the high tide. Maybe next time!

Forward progress stopped by the rocky bar

We love to explore rivers, always something new around the corner

Back on the boat we took it easy and did some planning. After checking the weather, we decided to head for Ucluelet rather than spending the next day at West White Pine Cove. That leaves that destination for our next trip on the coast. We had a calm night and enjoyed yet another episode of LOST.

Santa Gertrudis Cove To Bottleneck Bay Via Hot Springs

Alaska Dream was rocked by a few swells as we awoke at 6:30am. Karen checked the weather on the VHF radio and based on the forecast, we decided to go now to avoid the North West winds as we passed Estevan Point. To expedite our departure, we forego showers.  Once underway, breakfast was reheated cornbread with butter and honey. It was a perfect quick and easy breakfast for an early start.

Saying goodbye to Nootka light

 

The sun was out and the sea and wind, although up, gave us a nice ride. Karen took the helm as we rounded Estevan Point and was greeted by a couple of whales. We did not see any other pleasure boats along our route as has been the case for most of our trip down the West Coast of Vancouver Island. However, as we headed into Hot Springs Cove, we discovered where all the people were. There were a few cruisers anchored and all manner of “go fast” boats shuttling people from Tofino to and from the Hot Springs. As the docks were a flurry of activity with the tourists coming and going, we anchored out behind “Innchanted”, a floating bed & breakfast that is permanently anchored in the bay It was pretty windy. First was lunch, and once we were confident that the anchor was well set, we deployed the bridle and launched the dinghy for our trip to the docks and, ultimately, the Hot Springs. We had some trepidation as we had watched a nearby sailboat drag extremely close to the rocks as her owners came dinghying back at full speed to save her.

Busy docks at Hot Springs

Karen treks along the boardwalk at Hot Springs

It took us 40 minutes to walk to the Hot Springs. It’s a long walk with lots of steps, both up and down. But  the elevated walkway is well maintained and features endless planks that have been carved by the crews that have visited the Hot Springs. There was even one that said “Will you marry me?” I hope she said yes, because it would have been a very long walk back if not.

At the end of the trail, we found lots of people, but it was not overcrowded. Like all natural hot springs we have visited, you are at the mercy of Mother Nature for access and comfort. We first tried the closest and easiest to get to pool, but it was too cold. Then we tried our mountain goat impressions and made our way to the waterfall, but it was too hot. Karen continued her decent to the other pool, climbing over the other people that were, by necessity of the geological formations, were along her route.

"Come on in, the water is"...hot, cold, stinky... 

I retreated and got dressed and explored the area with my camera. After a while I saw Karen emerging out from the other side of the Hot Springs, having climbed some very large boulders to make her exit. This is not our cup of tea, risking life and limb on craggy, slippery moss-covered rocks to sit in stinky hot mineral water with people you don’t know. Compared to the pristine and uncrowded hot springs experience in Haida Gwai, this didn't compare. But we checked the box and when asked if we have been here, we can say yes.

Beautiful view from the overlook at the Hot Springs

If it were not for these people, you would never know the Hot Springs are there when viewed from the sea.

Our return walk took about 45 minutes to make it back to the boat. The wind was fresh and we battled the dinghy as the gusts would give it a mind of its own. Finally safe in its cradle, we headed inside for a nice fresh water shower.

We found the boardwalk more interesting than the Hot Springs themselves

We relaxed and consumed a fresh monkey bar we purchased on the docks as we watched the endless parade of boats and seaplanes dropping off and picking up tourists. We started our trip to Bottleneck Bay about 4:30. The ride was chop on top of swells, but we were happy compared to the people in the little “go-fast” tourist boats that were getting slammed by the seas. Karen took us into Bottleneck Bay through a cute small entrance. Once inside, we found a large bay with one sailboat, Autumn Winds at anchor.

Dinner was “yummy” Thai peanut chicken accompanied by another episode of LOST. We were both tired and went to bed early.

Tahsis to Santa Gertrudis Cove

Lots of sun this morning, but we are in no hurry. Eight o’clock was our planned wake up time and we did not expect to get underway before ten. I love these leisurely mornings. There will be some long days ahead with “O-Dark Thirty” wake up calls but for this morning, I’ll take it slow.

Westview Marina view from the land

Saying goodbye to Westview Marina

Some of the fishing fleet had already departed when I finally made it to the salon. I kind of remember hearing one small engine start but that was it. Either I was sleeping very soundly, or they were very courteous in their departures.

Breakfast was easy, cinnamon buns baked fresh yesterday at the Westview Marina.

Karen and I walked up to drop off trash and make one final link to the internet before we departed.

Heading south down Tahsis Inlet, the winds were light and the water calm. Our destination is Friendly Cove. Lots to do at our next port of call: visit the light house, check out the church and walk over to the native wood carver’s shed on the cove.

The light and docks at Friendly Cove

As we approached, Karen spotted the Uchuck III, a cargo vessel that now also takes passenger on day trips in the area. Its 110 feet and is the third in a line of vessel to bear the Uchuck name. Being a converted wood mine sweeper, it is stout and solid.

The Uchuck III

We dropped anchor in the cove in 30 feet over sand and mud and took the dinghy over to the dock. The Uchuck III was on the main dock in the process of loading passengers and gear form a community youth camp outing that was wrapping up from last weekend.

Loading today's cargo and passengers

The Uchuck III leaving dock. We hope he has Alaskan Dream in sight. 

The Lighthouse compound is one of the prettiest we’ve seen. It is staffed by Joanne and her husband. She was very gracious and showed us around and shared some great stories about their life as light keepers.

Picture postcard view of the light at Friendly Cove

Karen explores the compound

They have been stationed here for 8 years. They are responsible for all maintenance. The light receives about 2500 visitors a year. In addition to the light house they serve as coordinators of search and rescue missions in the area and are sometimes called upon as first responders. It’s lots of work and lots of responsibility.

This is how they get the supplies from sea level to the lighthouse

The bridge to the lighthouse

Breathtaking views from the lighthouse

The church is a 10 minute walk from the light and well worth the visit. In the church you will see beautiful stained glass windows commemorating the signing of the treaty between Britain and Spain establishing the boundary claims in this part of Canada.

Commemorative stained glass graces the windows

The totems guarding the church 

The new totem welcomes all, Bob provides scale

Two weekends ago, the native community that lay claim to the area, the Maguinna, erected a totem depicting the chief and “the people” with welcoming outstretched arms. Of course we checked that out and continued on to walk to the beach.

The walk along the south beach is not to be missed. We spotted humpbacks continuously diving. The people at the church said there was a whale rubbing himself on the pebble beach not ten minutes earlier.

The walks around here consist of smooth wide paths ranging from paved to well-trodden and meticulously maintained. All were relatively flat and made for easy walks. There is a twelve dollar a person “walking fee” collected by the First Nation’s tribe, but considering the facilities, including a very nice toilet, it is a fair toll to pay. Late in the afternoon we moved to a safer and more secure anchorage called Santa Gertrudis, where we had a lovely evening.

Friendly Cove light and Alaskan Dream

Mary Basin to Tahsis

We planned to arrive in Tahsis about 1 PM so we lifted the anchor at eight. It was somewhat sunny as we started out and we saw kayakers camping at Benson point. They were enjoying some very nice sandy beaches at the point.

Mary Basin

We started feeling the swells early and by the time we got to Louie Cove we were “hobby horsing” in the swells. Once we were able to turn so the waves were no longer on the beam, the ride improved. And when we turned up Esperanza Inlet the ride was smooth. For our next visit we said we would try Nuchatlitz anchorage because it was more on the way and probably offered more to see.

Radar transponder reutrn

Another first on this trip was the passing of a buoy with a transponder. I have read about these but never experienced one. It is designed to send a radar signal that shows up on your screen as a series on Morse code busts. This very distinctive display leaves no question as to the identity of what you are seeing on the radar display.

There are lots of fish farms in the channel and we spotted more being built in McBride Bay. The traffic was very light. We spotted a few small fishing boats but no pleasure craft.  Esperanza Inlet wasn’t much to write home about for sightseeing. We did see a small fishing lodge in Tahsis Narrows called Ceepeecee Lodge. The narrows themselves were unremarkable and we saw kayakers as we exited and headed north to the Westview Marina.

Fish Farm Hecate Channel

Lots of little "settlements" dot the landscape

You wish you had the time to stop everywhere and find out their story

Westview Marina on the left, the town of Tahsis on the right

The town of Tahsis is at the end of the inlet, and the marina is to port before you get to the town. It’s a bit of a confusing and narrow entry between the log breakwaters. We backed down onto the outer side of docks as the marina staff grabbed our lines and asked for our trash. Karen's ribs were very grateful for the help.

Westview Marina, Tahsis.

It was Tuesday, which is the cook's day off, so the menu only had burgers. So lunch was burgers and they were really good as was the coleslaw that came with. The marina provides free Wi-Fi and has a courtesy car that we borrowed for a trip into town. There was not much to see. The grocery store was designed to service more than just boaters, and had a little bit of everything, but was still just the basic items. We wanted to buy beer but the selection was not to our liking. The store staff was very nice and very helpful.

 The General Store in Tahsis

We drove around town but there was not really much to see. We did drive up Cardiac Climb (appropriately named for its steepness) before we went down to see the government docks and the Maquinna Lodge. We found the health center that was closed but the sign said there was an on-call nurse on duty 24 hours.

After our brief explorations we returned to the boat to do three loads of laundry and use the marina’s reliable 20 amp power.

The "Filet Ballet"

As the afternoon came, a steady stream of little fishing boats came in to populate the far side of the docks. We went back to the docks to watch the “filet ballet” that went on for several hours as the boats returned and offloaded their catch onto the fish cleaning stations.

As the fishing boats tied up at the docks they were meet by the government “reel surveyor” who took count of the catch and noted the size of the fish. There was an amazing assembly of filet tables and types of fish. A Seal came to grab a discarded carcass. It was really entertaining to watch as the guides made quick work of prepping the fish and the seals would “shark” around the docks looking for a tasty carcass.

Restaurant seating is on the docks under the tent

Come dinner time, and lacking any ambition, we were back on the restaurant docks for beers and more burgers. Top that off with another episode of LOST and that was our day. This is a great stop, the marina provides a nice oasis with pleasant outdoor seating, clean showers in the bathrooms, excellent water pressure and helpful, nice staff.