Port McNeill
/Port McNeill is a favorite stop for boaters as they make their way North or on their return trip. North Island Marina is friendly and full service. You can even fuel your boat at your slip with a system of very long hoses. You’ll berth among a range of boats - mega yachts to small fishing boats. There is something for everyone. This marina is extremely popular so be sure to make reservations.
The IGA grocery store, a couple of restaurants and a laundromat are all withing walking distance, not to mention the Shop Rite Home Store that has all manner of hardware and marine items.
It is not a town for foodies but establishments such as Gus’s Pub, where we enjoyed fish and chips for lunch, have been around since our first visit more than a decade ago. The brew pub trend has also made it to Port McNeil in the form of the newer arrival — The Devil’s Brewing Company — where the beer was very good, the pizza was just fine, the African Peanut soup was great — and the kitchen was very slow. They are not alone in staffing issues. We spent an hour and a half at Gus’s for food that came from a frier. The grocery store posted a sign saying they are now closing at 7pm because they are short-staffed. This seems to be pervasive since we left Sidney.
Our visit is planned for two days. Day 1 was mostly chores, with the second day’s highlight being a short ferry ride so we could visit Sointula.
The BC Ferries are the life blood of the island communities in British Columbia. The equipment is well maintained, and the crew members are more than polite. The ride to Sointula from Port McNeill is only 25 minutes, so we planned a half-day trip as it has been many, many years since we visited.
When I approached the ticket window and said that I wanted two tickets to Sointula, the kind person queried us be to be certain we understood that there is nothing much to see or do in Sointula if traveling by foot. “If you just want to go over and have a coffee, that’s fine, but it really is a place to take your car and drive all-round the island,” she cautioned. We acknowledged her advice and explained that we were familiar, and we would be OK.
Sointula is pleasantly not a tourist destination. We enjoyed visiting the cultural center of the island, the Co-Op, for a couple of provisioning items and the History Museum that makes up for its petite scale with the generous enthusiasm of the volunteers who are eager to inform. (Key highlight: the gorgeous blue/green rugs made from old fishing nets).
However, there was a special treat in store for us. The Malcolm Island Food Company is amazing. It just opened this year. The couple who run it came to the island a few years ago with a restaurant background. They first worked at Coho Joe’s for two years, then transitioned into making food to-go for their fellow islanders and have now opened a stand-alone shop in a beautifully converted garage. They enticed us in for their baked goods, but also specialize in prepared frozen meals. We stocked up on sweet and savory items for breakfast including a killer quiche and a frozen Shepards pie for dinner that night.
The last new-to-us treat in Port McNeill was the food truck, Lata’s Kitchen, located in an unused portion of the “up-the-hill” Shop Rite parking lot. The location has a commanding view of the harbour. The “picnic benches” are the nicest, most substantial I have ever seen. I’m not much for picnic tables, but these are so comfortable. I enjoyed the fish & chips and Karen had a gourmet brie and fig chicken sandwich. Yummy.
While we sat there, a steady stream of residents came in their cars and picked up takeout. When you see the locals support an establishment, you have hope it will be there the next time you visit.
I know this sounds like a restaurant tour of Port McNeill, but we do make it a point to eat off the boat when we can, because it will be many weeks before that opportunity presents itself again.
The last location to put on your list when you visit Port McNeil is Mugz 2.0. It is a reincarnation of Mugz and is a small coffee shop with breakfast and lunch items. I picked up a couple of very large apple caramel scones for the ferry ride to Sointula. Delicious, and they held us until dinner time!
Hopefully our fun time in Port McNeill has topped off our energy stores to sustain us for the 5-hour run to Bull Harbour and the following 6-hour day around Cape Scott to North Harbour in Quatsino Sound.