Scow Bay to Dixie Cove via Walters Cove

The Canadian Provincial park of Dixie Cove is our destination today, with a stop in Walters Cove to check out the town, the store and see if there is any water to be had.

Karen had a reasonably good night’s sleep, so I think she only bruised her ribs, nothing more.

The seas were absolutely flat. We navigated the inside passage near the shore line. It’s a bit of a windy route through islands and rocks but on such a flat day, it was no problem. If there were big seas, we would have run outside all the barrier islands and rocks that sit along this part of the coastline.

A calm and flat passage

The route into Walters Cove is serpentine, but well-marked. However, there are so many marks it can be confusing when you can see two or three red marks along with two or three green marks at the same time. The modern plotters with the boat’s position clearly defined by the GPS makes this kind of navigation much easier than the days of paper charts and relative magnetic bearings. Except for the entrance to Klashkish Basin just above the Brooks Peninsula, we have found our electronic charts to be spot on.

We arrived about noon according to our plan. The store opens at 1pm and we wanted an hour to walk around and explore on foot. We found out last year that if we went too long without getting off the boat to walk, it would affect our mood, making us feel a bit “boat bound”.

There is a part-boardwalk, part woodsy path that fringes the Walters Cove settlement. There was lots of activity for a Sunday, with various fishing camps and a few kayakers and people building a dock. No water for the boat, however.

Alaskan Dream on the docks at Walters Cove

Right at one, Susie opened the store. We did not expect much since the supply boat came in three days ago. However, we were able to get a couple of items we needed, including some much-needed taco shells.  As Karen talked to Susie, she mentioned her fall and asked if the Outpost Hospital had specific hours. Susie said that a nurse was on 24 hour call, and she called the nurse on duty at the Medical Outpost for us. We had seen the Outpost as we entered the channel to Walters Cove, but being a Sunday, we figured no one would be there.

Sara, the nurse on duty, said to come on over and she would take a look at Karen’s ribs. She concurred that they only looked bruised and that Karen’s breathing was totally equal on both sides, and that our treatment of ice packs and anti-inflammatories should continue.

It was $545 of peace of mind expenditure, as there is really no medical facility enroute until Tofino, which was not on our itinerary to begin with. We both felt better knowing that things were OK.

Walters Cove Medical station to the rescue

Leaving Walters Cove for Dixie Cove took us out a different way than we came in. To call it torturous is about right – several 90 degree plus turns in very limited room to avoid rocks. We found it fun that key “entry channels” were marked with hanging lines of floats to help even the locals find their way home! While we were working our way out, a float plane descended and came in right over our heads.

As we made our way past Hohoae point, we spotted some whale blows on either side of the channel. It was a lovely day, and we slowed to idle and were able to get a few fluke pictures for our efforts.

Lots of whale tails but no exciting action

Dixie Cove consists of two bays, the inner and the outer. Both are larger than they appear on the charts and we anchored in the inner bay with room for at least three more boats. The outer bay could accommodate many more. It is well protected and feels very tucked away from wind and weather. Karen had fun watching a sea otter play with a large piece of kelp – it kept mushing the kelp on its face and then hugging the long stem. There were also fish jumping and some baitfish we saw swimming off the back of the boat.

Welcome to Dixie Cove

After a dinner of grilled pork tacos with apple slaw and some baked chocolate chip cookies, we watched a couple episodes of LOST and called it a night in our quiet cove where we were all alone.