Dusky Cove to Goat Island

This morning was only half fog with the sun working hard to break through. I awoke early so we could launch the kayaks at low tide.  This is a great cove to explore when the water is low and the drying mud flats attract the gulls and other foraging birds for breakfast.

Exploring the mud flats with the gulls

It’s always amazing to see dry land at low tide at the same place you came through at high tide in the dinghy. We paddled around the various islets that guard Dusky Cove exploring the drying shoreline. Crabs, a few sea stars, clams and a few small fish were the highlights of the shallow water. Our friends the seals never made an appearance, much to the disappointment of Karen.

Lots of islets to explore in and around Dusky Cove

Heading back to Arctic Star

Once all were secure again on Arctic Star, we listened to the whaleboats in order to find out what the Orcas were up to at Cracroft Point. Our plan is to go sightseeing for Orcas and Humpbacks and then determine where our anchorage is going to be for the night.

Our quest was realized as we found Humpback whales in Blackfish Sound first and then found ourselves surrounded by Orcas in Broughton Strait. The area in Blackfish was almost exactly the same location we had seen humpbacks the last two days. Same for the Orcas, they are mostly local pods, so they frequent the same areas every day, making the whale watching business a success in this area. All and all, we spent a couple of hours watching both species of whales.

Where you find whales, you'll find gulls...Lots of gulls

Modern whale watching boat

Classic whale watching boat

After all the communing with the marine life we pointed the bow of Arctic Star to Goat Island to enjoy a quite night in one of our favorite anchorages. Maybe we’ll spot the same bear we saw a few days ago!

Pearse Islands to Dusky Cove

Fog, Fog, Fog, that’s what happens every morning in this weather pattern. Our plan is to stay on the hook until 11:15AM when the current goes to slack. That way we do not have to lift anchor in the strong current that inhabits this pass.

Fog lifting in the Pearse Islands

Our track line (red) shows the barbell pattern as we swung in the reversing current between the islands

Although the current is predictable, the fog is not. The forecast calls for the fog to lift late morning, but the recent pattern around here is that it takes until around 1PM before the sun conquers the fog.

Arctic Star made her way from the anchorage out into Blackfish Sound (named for the Orcas) where the wind was still and the water perfectly calm. Nothing but the seabirds were out and about. During the previous two days, we spotted humpback whales in these waters, but today not a sound nor a sighting.

Dusky Cove is a small depression in Bonwick Island and lies at the east end of a group of small islets. The pass to Dusky Cove is through these islets but the channel is deep and well charted. One needs to pay attention to the charts and keep an eye to the small outcroppings of granite as they pass, but in no time you drop your anchor in one of the most visually interesting spots in the Broughtons.

Given the large number of islets we decided to make our first exploration in the dinghy. Later, during a low tide we would come back to the most promising spots.

This cove put on a spectacular show at sunset, surrounding us with tree topped granite outcroppings cast about in a sea and sky of crimson and orange.

Dusky Cove sunset