Spicer Islands to Queen Charlotte City

Today is the day of the “Big Crossing. For our 75 mile day, we expect the wind to be light and the seas calm. The sunrise on our stern was picture perfect, matching the rest of the perfect conditions. This is one of the two intimidating crossings back and forth to the Haida Gwaii across Hecate Strait, and it looks as if this will be unbelievably good.

Sunrise departure

We were underway by 5:30 am. Karen and I rotated watches, 2 hours on and 2 hours off. It was very calm and we had our eye out for wildlife. Emmelina aboard Deception spotted a humpback and even some Minke whales but from our position we could see neither. 

The weather was so ideal I beckoned other boats in our group to pass me  to starboard, where the light was perfect for a “portrait” of them during the crossing. Inspired by as much boredom as anything else, a couple of the boats did “pose” for pictures.

Change of Latitude poses for a photo

Happy crew aboard Patos

We were surprised to see the Haida Gwaii islands from over 50 miles away. This was both good and bad, as it kept us from feeling like we were in the middle of a vast ocean, but it also seems to make the passage drag on when you can see your target but it never appears to get any closer.

Smoooooth seas

The direct approach to Queen Charlotte City is guarded by a bar that dictates that you steer a more northerly course and pick up a marked channel. This adds to the feeling of “are we ever going to get there” because once you enter the channel that runs along the island’s shore, you still have two hours to go. As we got into the marked channel, the waves and wind picked up some, but not much.

Although Emmelina had talked by phone to the “harbour master” at Queen Charlotte City to make sure that we had berths at the dock, attempts to reach him on channel 16 proved to be fruitless. After about three hails, Prince Rupert radio came on the frequency to inform Mother Goose that there is no harbor master at Queen Charlotte City.

So Deception told the rest of the fleet to stand outside the breakwater as they entered to see if they could find space for us all. There first report was that there was little if any dock space available and that the larger boats, ourselves included, should start looking for space in the Bearskin Bay anchorage outside the harbor.

I proceeded over to the area noted in the Douglass and Douglass guidebook and just as I completed my anchor circle, confirming the needed depth and lack of obstruction, Deception called to say that a fishing boat was just leaving and that a couple of other boats were moving to make room for us.

Deception called us in and we proceed to negotiate the small entrance and narrow channel lined with working boats. Once inside, we found our slip and Jordan, who had been dropped off earlier by Deception, waiting to catch our lines. The wind was 10-15 knots in a direction that would blow us off the docks. Add to that, there was just enough space for Alaskan Dream, but no more, between an old log tug and a small sailboat. I used all the tricks I knew to get in, and we were secured in sort order to the docks at Queen Charlotte.

Just as we approached the docks, sailboats started to leave so we called in Deception into that space. The one 46 and two 42 Grand Banks rafted three deep in the only other space on the docks. Lance and Kathy on Dream Catcher said they would prefer to anchor out, so I gave them the coordinates of the anchor spot I had just surveyed.

Three of the fleet rafted in Queen Charlotte City

The busy docks at Queen Charlotte City

We settled in and rested a bit, then headed up the ramp to dinner at Oceana Chinese & Continental.  We had decent Chinese food and beer, and then quickly found ourselves back aboard Alaskan Dream after a quick stop at the Visitor's Centre. We were ready for a good night’s sleep before tomorrow’s required briefing on the rules and regulations for boaters in the Gwaii Haanas national park reserve.

Shabby looking eagle on a shabby looking boat

Prince Rupert to Spicer Islands

Today we leave Prince Rupert for the Spicer Islands. This leg is a warm-up trip of “only” 39 nautical miles. The next day we cross the notorious Hecate Strait to Queen Charlotte City, a long haul of 75 miles. The weather forecast continues to be very good. And while we will have mostly cloudy skies, the clouds will be high, with some breaks and the winds should be light with no rain.

The heavy industrial ports just south of Prince Rupert

I don’t expect to see much on this leg. Most of the sightseeing is along the shore as you leave Prince Rupert. The town, the cruise ship and working boats along with the grain loading facility at the south end of town are worth checking out as the speed limit of 5 knots gives you plenty of time to witness the hand of man on the wilderness.

 Patos enjoying our perfect cruising conditions

Ferry Boats are about all we see along our route

The goal of this leg is to position ourselves for the crossing the next day.

Spicer Island is a very nice anchorage. The holding is good with a rock, mud and kelp bottom. There is room for lots of boats along spread out along the “U” shaped anchorage.

The first no name cove we tried, the one the Douglass & Douglass guidebook says has a "Jello-like bottom", was too shallow given the 20 foot tide swing for today. So we set our anchor part way down the southwest facing arm. In addition to the six boats in Mother Goose, (tied in two rafts plus us by ourselves) there was an 80-foot Alaskan anchored at the top of the ‘U’ and a two-masted sail boat nestled in the small cove at the end of southwest cove.

An all brown but tasty dinner of Orange Ginger Chicken and Rosemary Garlic Potatoes

Closer to sunset, a small sailboat joined us, anchoring near the large 80 foot, Alaskan.

Beautiful sunset at the Spicer Islands

Prince Rupert

Today is an unplanned lay day so that the crew of Mother Goose can make critical repairs on the 42’ Grand Banks Change of Latitude.

Northwest Explorations is flying in parts that should arrive in the afternoon. Turns out that the bearings in the idler pulley on one of the engines seized up, causing the pulley to stop rotating. So as the engine continued to turn and the belt rode over the pulley, the heat caused the pulley to melt. No one wanted the charterers to continue across Hecate Strait on just one engine, so repairs were essential. Thus, our extra day in Prince Rupert – not a bad place to spend an extra day.

Happy crew from Deception take advantage of a shopping day in Prince Rupert

Kathy and Lance from Dream Catcher came over to visit in the morning, and we entertained them in our “jammies”. In fact, we stayed in our jammies until 10:30am, relaxing and watching the intermittent rain. You often get to know and see more about your “boat mates” on these trips then under normal circumstances. It is part of the charm of this kind of traveling.

We have been searching Alaskan Dream in hopes of finding the emergency handle for the windlass. It was nowhere to be found, and it is a critical safety component if the electrics on the windlass fail. Jordan came over and gave the boat a look, and agreed it was missing. He took the handle from Dream Catcher as a model, and went to the local machine shop to have a new one made. It would be ready tomorrow at 9am, and at $80 Canadian it was a done deal.

Jordan also worked on troubleshooting our oven burners, as only one was working. He managed to get two functioning, which is the minimum I need to cook. We had only two functioning burners on Alaskan Dream last year, albeit a different two.

Lunch was again at Dolly’s, so you know how we highly recommend it. Karen’s halibut sandwich with yam fries was really good, as was my Caesar salad with blackened halibut. I had made chili after Kathy and Lance left, so we let it simmer when we left the boat for lunch.

Karen takes advantage of the WIFI at the market

My USB hub was not working, so we took a walk into town to Data Boy to pick up a new one and visit the ATM machine. On the way back, I got a Slurpee at the 7-Eleven. This now seems to be a tradition any time we are in Prince Rupert. Unfortunately they use Pepsi instead of Coke as they do in the U.S., but I made do. Karen stopped at the Starbucks in the Safeway for her last chance at a Starbucks’s unsweetened iced tea and some free WIFI. We also found some amazing balsamic glaze with fig at a small shop called Home Work. All in all, a good day.

Dinner was at the Cow Bay Café. Recognized as the best place to eat in Prince Rupert, Karen enjoyed her freshly caught Spring Salmon with mushrooms, and my ribs were good too. I had ice cream for dessert and Karen devoured a peach, blueberry and almond fruit tart. We noticed that many of our “boat mates” also enjoyed the culinary delights at the café that evening.

Foggy Bay to Prince Rupert

The alarm sounded and we awoke to dim morning light with light rain and mist. The goal was to try to beat the worst of the forecast winds by leaving as early as feasible.

A quick shower and I was on deck retrieving the stern line and moving the dinghy to the port side of Alaskan Dream so we could maneuver. Karen followed shortly and we cast off our lines from Grand Adventure. The anchor rode pulled us away from the raft of six Grand Banks as we proceeded to haul anchor.

After the anchor was secured onboard, we quickly took the dinghy aboard and secured it for the forecast three to four foot waves.

We departed Foggy Bay at 5am, leaving the rest of the fleet to finish dismantling the raft. Our early departure was based on our plan to run a bit slower than Mother Goose typically goes, about 7 knots instead of eight. This conserves about 20% more fuel during the passage. Also, our plan was to run down the eastern shore while the fleet is planning to cross over to Dundas Island, travel behind the protection of the small islands off of Dundas, and then make a crossing at the point of shortest distance.

My take on the weather was different than the forecast on the radio, so my plan was to expose myself to any beam seas early before they had an opportunity to build.

This northern and eastern route (see Douglass and Douglass) also has a few options to run on the inside of some islands, such as Tongass Passage, if the sea state dictates.

As we departed Foggy Bay, the bay itself was full of swells approaching 3 feet with a very short period. It was not a great ride, but as we got into open water and proceeded southeast, the ride improved substantially.

Overall, my forecast of 15 knots winds and seas less than 2 feet was spot on and we were able to take the most direct route to Prince Rupert.

Alaskan Dream was the first to arrive on the docks with Patos tying up shortly thereafter. Clearing Canadian Customs was the usual quick and efficient phone call at the pay phone in front of the Prince Rupert Yacht Club. (There is a toll free number pasted to the inside of the phone booth, so no Loonies required)

The colors change every year, but you'll find these visible at low tide

Dollys Resturant

Karen takes advantage of the WIFI at the market

A late lunch was at Dolly’s, a fish monger who also serves great food. The atmosphere is simple with a slight smell of fresh fish, but the food is fresh and very good. They are a short two block walk from the Yacht Club, and they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner.

We accomplished our mission of getting wine, a fishing license, some Canadian money from the ATM, and finished provisioning at the Safeway for those items we could not bring in to Canada from the U.S.

Dinner was with Lance & Kathy at the Breakers pub - a place for a decent burger and fries.

The night was pretty calm, though Karen noted that about 2am, there was some rocking and rolling despite being tied to the dock.

Ketchikan to Foggy Bay

Breakfast on the boat in Ketchikan - Must eat the fresh fruit early in the trip

Well no surprises here, it’s raining in Ketchikan. The Mother Goose fleet is planning an 8am departure. The wind is forecast to be 15-20 knots and we expect a nice but bumpy ride. Three of the six boats are stabilized (including ours!), but the other three will experience some rolling motion today.

As we worked our way south, we saw very little traffic once we left the Ketchikan area. No pleasure boats were to be found, and only the occasional fisherman was spotted. We saw a couple of tugs with their tows, but all in all it was a trip devoid of ships and wildlife.

Cruise Ships and Float Planes? It must be Ketchikan!

The rain was on and off again all day. Not really a factor in our travels. Once we arrived at Foggy Bay, Deception made fast a stern tie and then called each boat in turn until all were rafted. The two outside 49’s were each rigged with a stern tie to shore and their anchors were carried out and dropped by Captain Rich and Jordan using the dinghy.

Deception crew sets her stern line

Building the raft

The little dinghy that could

While successful, it became difficult for the little 9.9 hp Honda outboard to pull it’s load as more and more chain was paid out. The target was 200 feet of rode, but at about 150 feet Rich and the Honda both decided that it was time to set the 100lb. anchor.

Five of Six boats rafted in Foggy Bay

Shortly thereafter, we launched the dinghy for an excursion up Very Inlet in hopes of seeing some black bear and anything else that caught our fancy. The rain would come and go, and with it our interest in staying out too long. We did manage to travel a few miles up to the first rapids. They were running too strong on our bow to warrant an attempt at running them. So a quick about face, and we returned to Alaskan Dream with the cold mist in our faces.

Karen in her favorite spot in the dinghy

After shedding the foul weather gear, I finished up making some dip for a little planned socialization onboard Deception. Every boat brought a little snack or appetizer and whatever was their pleasure to drink. We spent a nice time getting to know one another. Rich and Emmelina briefed us on the next day’s travels and also what we can expect in the Haida Gwaii, two days out.

Where we are going, called Gwaii Haanas (The Beautiful Islands) is an Indian reservation and protected area, so they have their rules and regulations designed to protect the lands, seas and wildlife. Not a problem and understandable, we just need to clarify what is expected from us in our travels. More on this as we get closer to the islands.

The fleet has a 5:30am departure time tomorrow so by 8:30 I was asleep.