Shearwater to Bottleneck Inlet

We cast off as the last cruising boat to leave Shearwater this morning, updating our float plan to take the shorter—though slightly more exposed—route: skirting Ivory Island via Millbrook Sound and cruising up Finlayson Channel to Bottleneck Inlet. The weather looked cooperative, and this scenic path is always worth the gamble when conditions are good.

Aside from the three boats that left ahead of us, we didn’t spot a single cruiser all day. Light winds, smooth seas, and helpful currents made for an easy run, though the skies traded sunshine for a thick blanket of gray—our first fully overcast day in a while.

We slipped into Bottleneck Inlet on a +4 tide with 10 feet showing under the keel over the bar. Surprisingly, only one boat was anchored when we arrived, joined by just one more later in the day. Even here, where boats often dot the length of the inlet, it’s clear that early-season solitude still reigns.

Bottleneck Inlet offer convenient protection just off of Finlayson Channel

Fancy Cove to Shearwater

Just a short hop today brought us to Shearwater, where we were the first to arrive and had the docks to ourselves until afternoon. As always, we were welcomed by Jeff and Molly—now in their fifth season as harbourmasters and still the best part of any stop here.

The docks are missing shore power due to storm damage over the winter, when the “T-Dock” broke free. Jeff tells us power should be restored tomorrow. Fingers crossed that “tomorrow” doesn’t stretch too far into the future.

The store was open, though the shelves were mostly bare, with the next barge delivery a week away. Fortunately, the laundromat was fully operational, and we jumped at the chance to run a few loads ashore.

We couldn’t resist a stop at the legendary Hodge Podge general store—home of my favorite pepperoni cheese sticks—and warmed up with hot drinks on a chilly afternoon. A stroll to the ferry dock helped stretch our legs before chatting with some first-time cruisers heading for Alaska. Their enthusiasm reminded us that the magic of the Inside Passage never fades, even on a repeat voyage.

We’d planned to celebrate Karen’s birthday at the Fisherman’s Bar & Grill, but despite earlier assurances, the doors stayed shut. Plan B? Burgers aboard and a quiet night in port. Not quite the dinner we imagined—but full of the kind of memories we’ll laugh about later.

Pruth Bay to Fancy Cove

Today we set our course for Shearwater, but with a stopover at one of our favorite hideaways—Fancy Cove. Just 10 km from Shearwater, it’s the perfect spot to stage our arrival: close enough for a short morning hop, yet far enough to avoid the early marina shuffle. While timing isn’t as critical this early in the season, we’re always happy for an excuse to revisit this cozy anchorage. The bottom is mud and slit so a gentle touch is needed when setting the anchor.

It is also a reliable source for spotting our favorite black bear. He made his apperence in the West Cove arounnd high tide. Too dark for photos, but we’re happy to see him looking well after a long winter.

Looking out from fancy cove

The head of Fancy Cove. The source of the mud and silt for the sticky bottom.

THe west cove and our reliable bear beach

The day served up a sampler of spring weather—sun, clouds, showers, and back to sun again. Winds were light, the seas gentle, and the radar blissfully quiet. We didn’t see a single vessel leaving Pruth and passed just one lone sailboat en route. With luck, we’ll keep riding this quiet “in-between phase,” tucked neatly between waves of eager cruisers making their way to Alaska.

anchored inside the little islet gives you a northest view toward cooper inlet

FAncy cove sunset

Pruth Bay Lay Day

After two long travel days, today was blissfully uneventful—a well-earned lay day. We eased into the morning at a leisurely pace, then turned to boat chores in the afternoon. Sea strainers got a thorough cleaning, and a Racor filter was swapped out—just enough maintenance to feel productive.

Rain set the mood for most of the day, save for a stunning sunrise and an equally striking sunset. At 7 a.m., the NatGeo expedition ship arrived, and for the next few hours, we watched from the dry comfort of our cabin as tenders ferried 90 rain-soaked guests back and forth to the Hakai Institute. Their enthusiasm was admirable, but we were grateful our exploring was done yesterday—under sunny skies and in solitude.

a very dramatic sunrise in pruth bay

Red sky at morning….yes the rain came!

the viewed changed in pruth bay as the NatGEo set her anchor.

At 6 p.m., the NatGeo ship pulled anchor and glided off toward its next destination. Not long after, a turbo Beaver touched down in the bay and dropped off a lone passenger at the dock. As if on cue, the skies cleared and we were treated to a peaceful, rain-free evening.

Miles Inlet to Pruth Bay: Smooth Seas & Hidden Logs

With a favorable forecast in our favor, we made an early break from Miles Inlet to round Cape Caution and head into the heart of BC’s Central Coast. Winds light, seas down, and current behind us—one of those rare days where everything lined up for an effortless ride.

And it delivered. The ocean laid down to a gentle one-foot ripple, giving us a smooth cruise north. The only downside? A minefield of low-riding logs and driftwood, likely stirred up by recent high tides. Most were nearly invisible until you were right on them, so we stayed sharp at the helm.

We spotted just two pleasure boats making similar time and passed the Alaska Ferry Columbia on her southbound run to Bellingham. Otherwise, the radio was quiet and the traffic light.

Thanks to MarineTraffic, we knew a few boats were already tucked into Pruth Bay—five when we arrived, four flying U.S. flags. No surprise—Pruth is a perennial favorite. With its protected anchorage, access to Hakai Institute’s trails, and world-class beaches on the Pacific side of Calvert Island, it’s a gem.

early season peacful pruth bay

Once anchored, we headed ashore and chatted with Eric from the Tula Foundation, who shared news of a new outreach effort—presentations about the Institute for small visiting groups. One such event was scheduled for tomorrow, when the National Geographic Venture arrives with 90 guests aboard.

We took advantage of the quiet before the crowd, hiking over to West Beach where we had the sweeping shoreline entirely to ourselves. With sun overhead and the drone in the air, it was a perfect afternoon for beachcombing and feeling like we had the coast to ourselves.

the trails to the beach are well maintained

20 minute walk and boom, there’s the beach

a small portion of the massive west beach

a bird’s eye view of west beach looking north

if you don’t mind a bit of a hike, there are more beach to the south

looking back east from west beach, you see the haki institute and pruth bay

Back aboard, the entertainment continued as four sea lions put on a show, hunting in the current at the edge of the bay. A great ending to a Central Coast cruising classic.

a colorful end to the day looking over towrd the north cove of pruth bay