Khutze Inlet Lay Day

Another beautiful day in Khutze, at least to start.

Our only companion, the S/V Passing Cloud, left this morning. We noticed the passengers all staring at the waterfall, and right by it was a mama grizzly and 3 cubs. It’s rare to see that many cubs, and they were very playful.

After that, the inlet started to get a bit crowded.  First, we were joined by a Hinckley picnic boat and a small white sailboat. These two anchored at a respectable distance and were able to do so without turning the anchorage into a wakefest.

The the Canadian passenger vessel M/V Swell came in and took the spot in front of the waterfall that had just been vacated by S/V Passing Cloud. I wonder if these two charter ships coordinate their schedules?

m/v sweel arrives in khutze inlet

Swell takes Passing Cloud’s vacated spot in front of the waterfall

Karen has been tracking the first Waggoner Flotilla and thinks their 10 vessels may be joining us later this afternoon. That will definitely crowd this anchorage. As I’ve mentioned, it’s deep and not easy, especially if you enter at high tide like they will.

Sure enough, they stared to arrive in waves. First a 60-foot Grand Banks, following by an Arcturos 50, two 55-foot Flemings, and more.

Karen and I were immediately reminded of our last visit to Khutze, when a boat entered at full speed and waked us so much dinner went flying. These boats came in a bit slower than that, but not as much as you would like. They didn’t slow down early enough to avoid the rocking and rolling.

I also suspect no one had much idea as to what to suspect when anchoring in Khutze. Were they briefed? They would come in, drive toward the “open water” in front of us (that is, towards the mud flats that were covered at high tide) and then slam on the brakes as they saw the seabed rise rapidly.

Then out they would go, stopping again when the depth exceeded 100 feet in just a few boat lengths. They would float there for a while, trying to figure out where to go.

 We saw all manner of anchoring techniques, with too many just dropping their anchor and never bothering to set it.

We were scanning on the VHF and heard lots of dialogue between the boats. Several decided to anchor at the mouth of the inlet, off of Green Spit, where the depths and crowding were less. Despite that, we ended up with at least 10 boats anchored at the head of the inlet. It felt overcrowded for sure. It’s a tough place to bring a large flotilla when there are already 4 boats at anchor in a tricky anchorage.

The two Fleming 55’s in front of us in the shallow water over the mud flats may well luck out as the low tonight is a plus 7.6 feett, but they will need to be gone in the morning before the real low arrives along with the mudflats. Even so, if the winds swing back to the NE, they will awake with their sterns looking at some very shallow water.

In the meantime, the M/V Swell launched her two dinghies, called “Flotsam” and “Jetsom”.  They saw one bear run away from another and thought it might be a bit of a mating dance. Later, the mama bear and her 3 cubs came back out at the base of the waterfall and put on a show for a couple of hours to the delight of all of us anchored in view.

Windy Bay to Khutze Inlet

It’s an early wake-up call to time our arrival at Khutze Inlet at low water.

A low-water arrival lets us get a good look at the mud flats, which extend out further than you think and after often far different than what’s charted due to silting.  We haven’t been here since 2011, so our memories are a bit fuzzy compared to Culpepper Lagoon.  It’s just so much easier to anchor when you can see all the obstructions.

oceanflyer anchored at the head of khutze Inlet on a low tide

Like most Inlets with an alluvial fan, the bottom drops precipitously from the end of the fan. This makes it a challenge to drop in water that is not too deep - we try for a hundred feet - yet far enough from the edge of the mud flats so you can deploy enough rode without going aground. This is important, as inlets can get windy, especially in the afternoon.

My technique is to drive up to the edge of the flats, noting the depths as they rise. I have a minimum depth that I’m looking for – 10 feet under the boat at the lowest tide - and once I find that, I mark it on the chart. Then I measure out my estimated length of rode and motor out to that mark. If the depth at the anchor spot is acceptable, we release the anchor and set it well.

One advantage you do have is that you are backing uphill into the shallow water which gives your rode and anchor a great working angle. This comes with the disadvantage that if the winds blows you away from shore, you are now pulling away from the steep bottom, making easier to dislodge the anchor. That’s why we do not cheat on the amount of scope we use and set the anchor very well with at least three good tugs with power.

Khutze Inlet is about 5 miles long, with a beautiful estuary at the head. We were the only ones here when we arrived, which let us have our choice of anchor spots. It is really a stunning place, with a glorious waterfall, a beautiful valley surrounded by high peaks and a river. The Inlet, river estuary and uplands are part of the Khutze Conservancy, and it is nearly guaranteed that you’ll see bears this time of year.  In fact, we saw brown bears in the distance from the moment we arrived.

previewing the waterways at low tide

As we settled in, we were soon joined by the S/V Passing Cloud, a charter ship we first saw in Shearwater. They anchored just off the waterfall and soon launched their dinghy to take passengers exploring.

entering the slough

We were already out in our dinghy, heading up the right hand side “slough” on a rising tide. That is where we saw the bears from the boat, so we thought we’d start there. The slough, mostly dry at low tide, becomes a navigable waterway through grassy areas at higher tides. We entered the slough with 14’ under the dinghy on a +12.6 foot rising tide.

Soon after we saw bears right at the water’s edge, and dropped the dinghy anchor so we could watch and photograph the bears without disturbing them. One was younger, and the other was larger and more mature. After a while, first one and then the other waded and then swam from one grassy section to another.

i wonder if these two are related, as you seldome see two bears so cloase

they move effortlessly though the marsh and waterways

lots of sitting and chewing. One in a while taking a pause to look around.

We continued down the slough, which was beautiful, and we went a fairly long way, just under a mile in total. We found a second waterfall and yet another bear. When we turned around, we were in 4.5 feet (and the tide was 15.2 feet, just before the high).

As we headed out of the slough to the other side of the anchorage (the river side), the Passing Cloud dinghy headed in. It was great timing, and we all got our own “private bear viewing”.

looking up the valley from the river entrance

The entry to the river is on the far far left of the anchorage as you look toward land. There is a large spit that sticks out, and you have to go around it to reach the entry channel. It was deeper than the slough, but just as pretty. We entered with 13.6 feet under us on a 15.3 foot tide.

the very shallow water and rapids was our stopping point

We went about 1.2 miles up the river before reaching the end of the navigable waterway and had to turn back.  We saw one bear while exploring the river. Most of the shallow water was about 4 feet, the lowest we saw was about 3 feet on a +15.1 foot tide. It definitely is a benefit to visit when there are higher “high tides” to maximize the ability to explore by dinghy.

Between Khutze and Culpepper Lagoon, we had amazing brown bear viewing.

the signature waterfall at Khutze Inlet

Culpepper Lagoon Cove to Windy Bay

The sun was still with us as we awoke, but the forecast is for clouds to build for the next couple of days. But with no rain in the forecast for a few more days, we’re more than happy.

Today’s tides allowed us to have a lazy morning, as our departure wasn’t until early afternoon (high slack is the same time as high water at Tom Bay). As we haven’t seen a soul for days, it was great fun to suddenly see one dinghy, two kayaks and 2 paddle boards coming down the lagoon towards us. Karen stepped out to chat with one of the kayakers. The entourage was from the S/V Walkabout Catamaran anchored outside the lagoon entrance at the head of Kynoch Inlet. We often think we are crazy living in Philadelphia but keeping our boat in Bellingham. These guys have us beat. They live in Australia and keep their boat in Sidney! They chatted for a while, and we learned that they saw bears out there are well – including some mating activity. Apparently they are now scarred for life.

As the afternoon approached, we hauled anchor and were 20 minutes early to the lagoon entrance. We had about 1.5kts of current on the bow as we exited. AIt was easy to maintain a course into the main flow as it got squeezed through the narrows.

As for depth, we saw 23 Feet on a +13.9 tide at Tom Bay. That would equate to 10 feet under the boat at zero tide, so I would only attempt a passage at low tide on a dead slack flow.

Unlike what you may think, it is best not to make your turn to the left  immediately after exiting the narrows. The water is shallower there than on the mud flat side. It is charted, but it is a surprise to see your depth finder coming up as you leave the narrows if you turn too soon.

As the folks from Walkabout Catamaran had mentioned, the wind was quite brisk at the end of Knock Inlet with a moderate white-capped chop. The catamaran and another boat were definitely pitching a big at anchor.  What a change to see after so many days of winds less than 5 knots and calm waters at the head of the lagoon.

This afternoon wind effect is quite common in Kynoch Inlet, and you need to have adequate scope as you set your anchor with the stern to the mud flats.

You cannot tansit kynoch inlet without taking a photo of the signature waterfall at lessum lake

As predicted, the clouds start to build, but we cannot complain after the stellar conditions we enjoyed at Culpepper Lagoon. Our trip through Hiekish Narrows to Windy Bay was uneventful with lovely scenery. We anchored behind the little island in the same spot as we did two years ago. We were all alone until late in the evening, when we were joined by a small sailboat.

Culpepper Lagoon Lay Day 2

Today is our big day of explorations – the weather gods have brought us sun and less wind that yesterday.

beautiful morning to go exploring

grizzley and bald eagle share this breakfast spot

We took a long, 10.1-mile roundtrip dinghy explore the entrance to Culpepper Lagoon. We wanted to confirm the timing we have for low slack water. The head of Kynoch Inlet was calling, and we could not pass up the sunny skies and calm winds.

We went out the entrance at a plus 1.63 rising tide at Tom Bay. The water was flowing at less than one knot. When leaving the entrance, do not make your turn to the left too soon. Continue straight or even favor the right side toward the mud flats. It’s a bit counterintuitive, but the water is deep on that side. Just check your charts and you’ll see how the bottom contours.

There are extensive mudflats at the head of Kynoch Inlet, which usually means great bear viewing at this time of year. In fact, we saw two brown bears this time. The larger bear stayed on the far side of the creek, but the “younger” bear put on a show.

We sat in the dinghy for a long time in the backwater just inside the flow from the rapids in about 15 feet, watching as the bear made his way meticulously along the water’s edge. We watched him dig in the mud for edibles, leaving behind a trail of upturned mud.  He was determined to find all that he could for his breakfast buffet. It’s funny to see how dedicated they are to finding tasty morsels.

you gotta get your paws dirty if you want to eat

i’m checking you out checking me out

At one point he started digging with one paw and we saw he had found a very large Geoduck- we swear he shivered with excitement and then began to dig feverishly with both paws. It was indeed the biggest Geoduck I have ever seen, and he devoured it with relish.

digging deep for the big reward

sitting down to enjoy a large Geoduck

an after breakfast refreshing drink of freah water from the stream sitting on top of the salt water

We explored up Kynoch Inlet to the first turn to the right, and were amazed yet again at the shear, steep granite cliffs that surround the head of the Inlet.

We headed back into the lagoon on a plus 4.08 foot tide at Tom Bay. We recorded a 19-foot depth in the narrows, and the current was flowing inbound at a couple of knots. There were swirls but they were laminar and there were 10 -15 feet diameter, flat whirlpools on the inside. They were of no significance for the dinghy at these flow rates.

I took the drone up to look at the river with a 8.33-foot tide at Tom’s Bay, that’s about a half tide

darker water indicates the deepest water

planning route around fallen trees

bird’s eye view of the river as it continues back into the valley

After lunch, we launched the dinghy for an explore up the river 1 hour before high tide, so we would have high but still rising water to maximize our trip upriver. Having the reconnaissance photos of the river at low tide was a great aid in planning our strategy to stay in the deepest channels. The photos also helped in planning how to get past the various fallen trees in the river.

high tide at culpepper lagoon

Over the years, I have become more comfortable navigating up rivers in shallow water.  Today, the water was crystal clear and with the sun at our backs, we were able to see all the obstructions and pass safely past rocks, submerged detritus and fallen trees.

clear water makes the bottom seem very close, its about 4 feet

We were able to get up the river about 1 mile, where it turns to a permanent, shallow rapids. Interestingly, this is the same turnaound point we had several years ago when kayaking.  The lowest water we saw on this trip was a brief 3.5 feet and generally never less than four feet until we hit those shallow rapids. As a point of reference, It was a 13.88-foot high tide at Tom Bay.

end of the line

karen grabs a fallen tree as we take a rest in our river explore

exploring rivers is always full of beautiful views

looking back at oceanflyer from the river

Culpepper Lagoon Lay Day 1

We awoke to no rain and a few breaks in the clouds, a big improvement over the monsoon in Rescue Bay. It was also near low tide, so I flew the drone to get some good photos of the low water environment, especially the shoaling at the head of the anchorage. This would be a big help to us when we dinghy up the river at high tide. How, you might ask?  In particular, the low water helps show the best “entrance” to the river which is not obvious at high tide.

LOW CLOUD MORNING AT THE HEAD OF CULPEPPER LAGOON

FROM THE AIR YOU BEGIN TO APPRECIATE THE MUD FLATS

LOOKING BACK TO OCEANFLYER FROM THE NORTH FROM THE BEND IN THE NORTH RIVER

Later we launched the dinghy and began to explore the south portion of the anchorage.  But first, we took the dinghy partway into the river’s entrance to leave a path on the dinghy’s GPS I could later follow at high tide.

THE HEAD OF CULPEPPER LAGOON

As we were exploring the sound end looking somewhat futilely for future stern tie opportunities, Karen spotted a brown bear digging in the mud revealed by the low water. We sat for an hour watching him dig up all matter of yummies from the mud. He was clearly hungry and looked like he needed to bulk up a bit after hibernation. Culpepper Lagoon is usually a “count on” spot to see brown bears.

HUNGRY BEAR ENJOYS HIS BREAKFAST

Next, we took the dinghy back a couple miles to the lagoon entrance to see how strongly the current was running 2.5 hours before slack turning to flood. It was ebbing over 3 knots with a well-defined path. You could probably travel with the current into the lagoon, but I would not choose to enter against this current in my 9-knot boat. The swirling eddies would make for a very interesting ride. I’m sure we could make it at full power, but you’d be exhausted, both mentally and physically, from trying to maintain heading control. Given that slack is well predicted off Tom Bay, it’s easy to time a stress-free entry and exit at or close to slack.

We decided to explore the head of Kynoch Inlet, just outside the lagoon entrance, tomorrow with a better-timed approach and hopefully warmer weather.

On the way back to OceanFlyer, we stopped at Riot Creek to see if we could find a good stern tie option there, but again, we didn’t identify anything particularly appealing. The creek is pretty though.

LOOKING BACK TO THE NW DOWN CULPEPPER LAGOON

OCEANFLYER ANCHORED AT THE HEAD OF CULPEPPER LAGOON

AFTERNOOON RAINBOW AT CULPEPPER LAGOON

We lazed about for the rest of the afternoon, just enjoying the silence and majestic beauty of this anchorage.