Refuge Island

One of the places that we have never visited is Lucky Creek near the mouth of Pipestem Inlet. It is written up as a favorite stop by boaters and worth a visit. So off we go.

If you read the write-ups and even comments on ActiveCaptain, anchoring nearby can be sketchy. But we had no problem finding a secure and attractive anchorage behind Refuge Island. It’s true, there isn’t a ton of room in front of the oyster floats, but there was enough. The bottom was rocky, but the Ultra held well.

overview of refuge island anchorage

We timed our arrival so that we could dinghy up Lucky Creek at high tide. The approach was silted, shallow — we saw 5 feet in places on a 11-foot tide — and somewhat tricky, but the rest was reasonably easy to navigate. It’s a wide and pretty creek, though not as breathtaking as the Marble River.

We wanted to stop at the head and scamper up the rocks to see the various pools and rope swing, but two kayaks were beached exactly where we wanted to tie off, and we didn’t want to crowd them. One our way out of the creek, we came across a large black bear swimming.

no place to beach the dinghy. kayaks got there first.

We then decided to explore the anchorages behind Bazett Island and the anchorages at Cataract Creek. Though all the write ups imply you need to stern tie, there are clearly opportunities to swing at anchor if you are careful (and if it’s not crowded).  We actually dinghied up Cataract Creek a fair ways, which was a surprise as no one really talks about it.

We then headed up Pipestem just a bit further to the “lagoon”. Entry was easy, and there was a “structure” at the entrance where two people were relaxing. They had set up tents on the structure, and there was a mooring ball for a small boat. Don’t know if it’s owned by one person or is a community thing, but it was cool. The lagoon was very pretty, especially the island in the middle.

surprise structure on the island as you return from visiting the lagoon

It was peaceful and quiet back at our anchorage. We noticed that the smoke building from the BC wildfires was becoming more noticeable. At least it results in colorful sunsets!

Refuge Island sunset

refurge island anchorage not for navigation

Pinkerton Islands

Kevin helped us with a ride back from the Tofino Airport after we returned our rental car in the morning. Our destination today is the Pinkerton Islands. This area is north of the Broken Group. Specifically we like a small one-boat anchorage that is behind some barrier rocks and bordered by shallow flats.

We have always enjoyed this anchorage. The drying rocks give protection from the fetch on most tides, and we have a great view to the south. We’re also hoping that we can get a nice breeze into the anchorage so we can mitigate the heat as the temperature is forecast to approach 80F this afternoon.

Karen has been monitoring on Marine Traffic a boat the past few days that was anchored in “our spot” but, as luck would have it, they had moved on before we arrived.

Back in our spot, we enjoyed being the only boat in sight. There were two boats anchored around the corner in the main passage, but we only knew they were there from AIS.  In addition to the views to the south, there is a large drying flat to the north where we have seen bears and wolves in the past. Like clockwork, we had a bear sighting at a 5-foot low tide.

our favorite nook in the pinkerton islands

one of the local bears walks through “ankle” deep mud as he makes his rounds

cozy home in our pinkerton islands anchorage

Overview of the Pinkerton Island Islands

Karen decided that we were going to go past Equis Beach to Julia Passage, about a 5-mile trip one-way.

Julia Passage was a delight. After working our way through a horde of sport fishing boats at Howard Point, we entered this long no-wake passage that is home to 42 float homes. Each one was detached from the others, on both sides of the pass. No two were alike. These float homes were well kept and ranged from cozy to rather grand. We went all the way to the end of the passage and really enjoyed this small touch of “wilderness civilization”. Everyone we saw — there were some people in residence — smiled and waved.

just a few of the 42 float homes in Julia Passage

On the way back, again weaving through the fishing boats, we saw several salmon caught. Karen clapped for one successful fisherman, and he bowed in return.

floathouse in the western nook can just been seen in the center of this photo

our view as the sun rises in the Pinkerton islands

Joe’s Bay

With the forecast for a few days of strong winds, we decided to make the run from Kennedy Cove to the Ucluelet area today. Conditions were as forecast with light winds and 3-4 foot gentle ocean swells. We enjoyed a pleasant trip south with not much to remark on except for the unexpected crab pots in the ocean at the 150-foot depth line.

As I always say, you know when you’re near Ucluelet when the horizon fills with small boats bobbing in the swells as they troll for salmon. Today was no different. We lost count on how many we passed, dodged, and otherwise avoided. Throw in a couple of kayakers fishing in 4-foot swells and you have a busy approach to the entrance of Carolina Chanel. In reduced visibility, my preferred entrance is to pass by Carolina Channel and enter the area using Loudoun Chanel. You will not find the flotillas of small fishing boats, most without AIS or radar, which makes this 2-mile addition to your journey much safer.

We’ll pass Ucluelet for now and return later for some light provisioning and a planned meal at Pluvios restaurant.

Therefore, we set our destination for Joe’s Bay in the Broken Group. It is a large, if not commodious anchorage, with easy anchoring, good holding, and protection from the winds. Perfect after a 5-hour run.  We dropped the hook in just the right spot, with views out a narrow passage that covered and uncovered depending on the tide.

LOTS OF ROOM IN JOE’S BAY

As we dropped the hook, we noticed a large motoryacht anchored in a corner with a ton of people on it. Turns out this is the Raincoast Maiden, a 53’ day-tour boat that offers a trek through the Broken Group from Ucluelet. They were having a lunch stop and were rather boisterous. Luckily, they soon left, talking on the loudspeaker as they went. We ran into them several times during our stay in this area.

The bay wasn’t particularly crowded, with everyone well-behaved in terms of anchoring space. Once again, we were surrounded by Sailboats.

We went on dinghy explorations just to snoop around. We exited the narrow passage ahead of our anchor spot, tooled around, scoped out the kayaker beaches and nosed the dinghy up to several pocket beaches so Karen could get off, walk a bit and look for shell treasures.

There were lots of kayakers in the area, as Joe’s has good campsites. We noticed the Clayoquot Whaler come into the anchorage twice a day to pick up or offload kayakers. The captain was a great boat handler and was fun to watch. On one visit, he was dawdling and drifting near OceanFlyer while waiting for a kayaking group to get to the pick-up beach and prepare for loading. Karen waved and the next thing we know, he is rafting to us and gifting us with a lovely salmon. We traded some whiskey in return and everyone was happy.

ANOTHER PICK-UP FOR THE BUSY Clayoquot Whaler

MOTHER NATURE DOES NOT DISAPOINT

We also had some lovely sunsets in Joe’s ‘Bay. It’s a favorite stop in the area.

Tranquilito Cove

At the end of Tranquil Inlet behind Tofino lays the small one-boat cove known as Tranquilito. The depths on the charts list a generic 10 feet. However, it offers a secure anchorage in soft mud in about 25 feet. There is plenty of depth in the center with room to swing on at least a 3-to-1 scope. A favorite of our friends Lynn and Neal, we decided to give it a try.

As seems to be the norm in this area, these small coves have a much larger feel once inside. We have great views out to the Northwest and the drying river shoal at the head of Tranquil Inlet. Bears have been reported on this “beach”, so we’ll keep a lookout for their low water foraging. There is a dramatic slab of black granite wall on one side of the anchorage that adds to the ambiance.

Tranquilito Cove looking south down Tranquil Inlet

Our plan is to hang out in the forecast rain tomorrow and do boat chores, laundry, cooking, trip planning, blog entries and some radar troubleshooting.

Rain did come the next day as did the M/V Stornoway who unexpectedly stopped by to say hi and take a look at the anchorage.  We once had dinner their house in Port Madison on Bainbridge Island with our friends Greg and Jan from M/V Spellbound. It’s truly a small world.

Tranquilito Cove not for navigation

Freedom Cove