Texada Boat Club, Sturt Bay

This little marina remains a favorite of ours. When going north we often do not want to stop at the overally popular Pender Habour. The Texada Boat Club transiant docks are first come first serve, but we have always found a spot. It’s one dollar [CAD] per foot. The manager comes by in the afternoon to collet the moorage fee in cash only.

transiant Docks are on the outer tee

BusY haulout opposite the TExada Boat Club

If the docks are full, the anchorage in the bay is fine but subject to swells in SE winds.

Great views out of the bay to the East, But also the source of fetch

From previous visits we can recommend a walk to the little town of Van Anda. You’ll find a very nice grocery, an interesting historial museum, the Texada Museum and Archive featuring the history of Quadra Island and a delightful lunch spot called Mary Mary Café .

Sunset over the anchorage

Ladysmith

When traveling north into Canada, Nanaimo is a mandatory stop for provisioning. The town has grown significantly and now offers a wide range of big box stores, grocery stores, and even a couple of chandleries.

During our layovers, we discovered a few special stores that are worth a visit. McLean's Specialty Foods is a gem, with an unmatched variety of imported cheese and other unique food items. We're particularly fond of their bacon. Additionally, we found an outstanding butcher shop called Nesvog Meats. With a simple email order and a designated pickup date, we can quickly stock up on protein for three months in just a 5-minute stop.

However, our fondness for the Port of Nanaimo Marina has diminished over the years. Their commitment to service is lacking, and the staff seems disinterested in anything nautical, resembling municipal workers.

Upon sharing our dissatisfaction with the Port of Nanaimo with friends, they suggested we try Ladysmith instead. Specifically, they recommended The Ladysmith Community Marina run by the Ladysmith Maritime Society (LMS). You can feel like a local by hailing them using the LMS moniker.

Not only is the staff at Ladysmith Community Marina courteous, professional, and friendly, but every boater we encountered on the docks was warm and welcoming. In fact, when I inquired as to the best taxi service to get to the airport, a staff member offered to give us a ride. When was the last time that happened to you? Karen and I agreed that this marina might be one of the friendliest we've had the pleasure of visiting. The marina is conveniently located just 10 minutes away from Nanaimo Airport, where we rented a car for provisioning duties in Nanaimo proper.

As a bonus, we stumbled upon a remarkable restaurant serving Spanish tapas cuisine. We received a recommendation from a fellow boater while doing laundry in Sidney. It seems the laundry network is an invaluable resource in boating.

If you want to feel Like a local, take a photo of the specials before the hostess recemmends you do so

Maya Norte serves memorable food and should be a top priority on your next visit to Ladysmith. You can find more information about them at https://mayanorte.com/.

Corn, Chorizo and Chedder Fritters are highly recommended

However, despite our happiness with Ladysmith Community Marina, there is a dark cloud hanging over it. We learned that the town is demanding that the Ladysmith Maritime Society, a non-profit corporation, vacate and remove all structures, including docks, buildings, and pilings by the end of 2023. This is despite LMS having a contract in place until 2029. In our opinion, LMS has done a magnificent job managing the docks for 37 years. We urge you to follow this story and offer help to prevent this overreach by the Town of Ladysmith and the Stz'uminus First Nation's Coast Salish Development Corporation.

Sunrise at the LAdysmith Docks

Ketchikan to Kasaan

After yesterday’s gale that blew through Ketchikan, this morning is calm and clearing for our departure.

We had sympathy for the Celebrity Infinity whose docking yesterday in the gale was made famous on YouTube. The current as we left Thomas Basin lived up to its reputation. Although we had a close encounter with the pilings as we made our way into Tongass Narrows, we did not suffer the fate of the Infinity that is now sporting a large scrape on her boarding side. I wonder if the Captain had the mishap painted over while the passengers were enjoying the lumberjack “competition” in town.

While there were a few cruising boats leaving Ketchikan as we departed, including the smile-inducing Disney Wonder, we soon parted ways as we crossed Clarence Strait to make our course to Kasaan. Kasaan is one of two Haida Villages in Alaska (the other is Hydaburg).  Kasaan is home to the only standing Haida longhouse in the United States, the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House. It is in the last stages of renovation with a planned re-dedication in September, 2016. Historically, the docks at Kasaan were best described as “awash”. That is now not the case, with the open harbor now enjoying beautiful new docks worthy of a much larger city.

A sure sign your have arrived in Kasaan

Not all signage is traditonal

The shore comes up quick here and with the 20 foots tides, and a minus 5 foot low, we chose to tie on the outside. The inside of the docks would be fine in high water, but our morning departure would be delayed waiting for enough water to get between the docks and the shore. Out on the west end, we never saw less than 27 feet on a minus 5 foot tide.

Mind the tides

We saw only one other boat on the docks, a local couple that was about to head out for some time on the water. They pointed us in the direction of the long house, and asked “Are you carrying?”  While Karen was slow to catch on, I immediately understood that they were strongly suggesting we carry some sort of bear protection!

Follow the signs to the long house

It’s a 1.75 mile walk to the long house. About 1/3 of the journey is on local roads and the remainder on one of the nicest forest paths I have ever seen. Karen commented that she thought you could push a wheel chair along the tree-lined path it so flat, wide, smooth and free of obstacles.

Great path on the way to the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House.

At the transition from the road to the path is the Totem Trail Café. Set up to serve the mini-adventure cruise boats that visit the area, it looks as if it could seat 100 people. Open from 7am until 3:30pm Tuesday through Saturday, they have a full menu and are very friendly. We stopped briefly on our way back and I can vouch that their smoothies are delicious.

We were not expecting to see such a modern facility as the Totem Trail Café.

Inside the Totem Trail Café.

The work on the long house was almost complete. There are some amazing restored totems inside the longhouse.

Inside the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House

Surrounding the compound are a wide range of totems dating from the 1930’s to more contemporary installations. It represents one of the best selections of intact and restored totems you will find in Southeast Alaska.

 A very traditional styled totem

A not so traditional totem. Have the guides tell you why this totem is topped with this figure.

Anybody else see Bozo the Clown in this totem.

There is a view to the beach, and a short trail that allows you access to walk along the shore. It’s easy to imagine the Haida landing their canoes!

Guided tours are available by contacting O.V.K. at 907-542-2230. 

We had a very quiet night. The weather was calm, and we were they only transient boat on the docks, with just a few local skiffs and some eagles for company. The views down the channel were lovely, with the only traffic being the Inter-Island ferry on its way to Hollis.

OceanFlyer on the new docks at Kasaan.

The name Kasaan come from the Tlingit word meaning “pretty town”. We definitely agree.

Kwatsi Bay to Boughey Bay

Today is a four hour run to position ourselves for our six hour trip down Johnstone Straight. Our noon departure was dictated by trying to go through Chatham Channel near slack tide. Chatham Channel has good depth, and is reasonably wide except for the southeast end where there are two range makers to keep you in the channel.

OceanFlyer on dock at Kwatsi Bay

happy hour dock on the left

our host's home

our local sentry

It has been a while since we transited Chatham Channel, and our passage today reminded us that is it no big deal. Currents can run to five knots, but in a boat such as a 49 Grand Banks, passing with a 2-3 knot current is no problem.

As we were nearing the last quarter of the channel we saw traffic going our same way. Leading the procession was a very small “yard tug” pulling a large barge. It looked as if they were repositioning a logging camp. We slowed a couple of knots so as to not run too close to the other powerboat following the barge.

GYPSY traveler

Our late departure also meant that the morning fog had burned off and we were able to enjoy the first day of sunshine in three days. Karen and I opened up the flybridge and ran the boat from there. We did need light jackets as the wind picked up to 15 knots on our nose.

fog is our traveling companion THIS year

We arrived at Boughey Bay at our planned four hour mark only to find a  boat anchored in “our spot”. So we motored around the anchorage checking depths and found a suitable location three hundred feet in front of them. Oh well, there goes their view. The wind was still at 15 knots from the northwest, but even though the bay was open to the northwest, swells never formed.

Chicken and corn tonight for dinner; some homemade brownies for dessert and then early to bed is the plan. Our wakeup call is for 5:00am.

Monday Anchorage to Kwatsi Bay

Fogust, the name given to the month of August in these parts, is in full swing. This morning the visibility is, as we say in the aviation world, ZERO, ZERO. We don’t mind traveling in this weather, it’s just less fun because you must be very vigilant and cannot relax and enjoy the scenery. Of course there is no scenery when it the fog is this low and dense.

not much to see outside

I keep my scan inside the boat, focusing on the radar and the chart plotter. Karen maintained a lookout for debris in the water. Since we could not see more than one to two boat lengths, we reduced out speed so we would have time to dodge and obstacles in our path.

The radar performed well, it would even trace logs on the flat water and small flocks of birds as they flew close to the surface. In Misty Passage we did get close enough to see a fishing boat anchored in the pass. But the couple of other returns from vessels produced no visual sightings.

birds are a big help in spotting logs

As we transitioned into Tribune Channel, the fog began to lift and by the time we reached our destination, the base of the clouds were about 1500 feet with good visibility below.

fog lifting in tribune channel

Kwatsi Bay is one of our favorite stop in the Broughtons. Max and Anca have been here 16 years and provide a most welcoming venue. It is not large but the 5:00 happy hour is a big draw. Every boat brings something to munch on and we all sit around and get to know one another. You always meet great people that you have so much in common with. Boats, cruising and fishing are, of course, main topics of discussion, but Max and I had a long discussion about how the “personality” of a country influences the cars they build. Karen, on the other hand, began to sing the Pharrell Williams song “Happy” while another attendee began to dance.  The dock was full, and the night was peaceful.