Simoom Sound to Ahta River then Kwatsi Bay

It was a quiet night at anchor and we both had a good night’s sleep. This was the first morning that I set an alarm because we needed to be underway by 8:30 to arrive at the Ahta River at 10:30, two hours before high tide. 

At we motored into Ahta River Valley at the end of Bond Sound, the clouds started to break. It was beautiful. We found a temporary anchorage not far from the mouth of the river and made ready the Kayaks. We had visited this river last year in the dinghy, but vowed to come back and explore in the Kayaks, hoping we could get further up the river and the creek with less draft. 

The day was chamber of commerce perfect. We enjoyed clear skies, bright sun and the temperatures actually moved past 60 degrees, but just barely. 

Picture perfect day in Bond Sound 

It appeared that we had timed our arrival just right, as there were numerous fishermen also converging at the river’s mouth. There were two fly fishermen with their guides, and a commercial netter was also working the water at the head of the Sound. 

Karen leads the way up the Ahta river 

We pushed as far as the shallow water would allow 

Karen and I worked our way back into the river by kayak, looking for fish and hopefully bear. Neither was to be found, but we had a great time exploring the nooks and crannies and shallows of the famous Ahta (both the River and the Creek). We did see places where the bear come down to the water to fish. It’s very obvious where the tall grasses have been trampled flat and the bear has spent time lounging by the river’s edge. You also see an occasional bear paw print in the small sandy “beaches” made when the the black bear fish in the shallows. The wind picked up, and we wanted to make sure the boat was still secure, so we headed back. 

Back on the boat, we checked our position; the boat had not moved. So we enjoyed lunch and spent the next two hours soaking up the sun’s rays, watching dolphins play, and watching the fishermen attempt to hook up. The fish seemed to taunt the poor fellows; they would jump out of the water all around the fishing boats, but no one ever caught a fish. Such is fishing. 

Surround by fish jumping all around, the could not get any into the boat 

All in all, we spent a glorious 5 hours at the head of Bond Sound. Around 3:30pm, it was time to make our way over to Kwatsi Bay.  

How Karen spent her afternoon  

We took a very minor detour over to Wahkana Bay to see what it was like. It lies at the end of a moderately long sound, so it provides very good protection in all conditions. However, there not much else to recommend it. You need to stern tie due to the deep water and the scenery is simple mountains with pine trees for 360 degrees. 

We arrived at Kwatsi Bay and were greeted by Max Kneirim. The family was at Port McNeill, having started school last week. So Max was all alone to tend the marina. After he helped us tie up, he was off to finish the prawns for the daily “happy hour” at five. Counting the boat that followed us into the bay, there were a total of 5 on the docks that evening. 

All the mariners gathered under the “party tent” shortly after five, and we spent a most pleasant 2.5 hours exchanging stories and noshing on yummies that each boat contributed to the cause. 

Good times at Kwatsi Bay Marina 

By 7:30pm, the declining temperatures convinced everyone to head back to their boats to warm up and start dinner. Karen and I spent some time planning the next day, as we have modified slightly her master plan. 

It seems we are in a rut with the weather and tomorrow is supposed to start off with low clouds and fog. Hopefully, that will break into sunny skies again, as it did today. 

The Burdwood Group to Simoom Sound

You guessed it! It was cloudy when we awoke. Not foggy, but we did have a low ceiling composed of our Northwest cloud companions. There was a light mist, just enough to make you say “yuck” when you walked on deck.

After breakfast, we made our way the short distance to Pierre’s at Echo Bay. The agenda at Pierre’s was to take on water, do laundry and some minor provisioning. We also needed to satisfy our curiosity. Pierre had moved his entire operation one bay south to Echo Bay. In typical Pierre fashion, he did a first class job of a major upgrade to the old Echo Bay facilities.

The approach to the new Pierre's. The big pig roast tent clearly visible on the right.

The nice new docks at Pierre's

The Canadian Coast Gurad makes a visit.

Looking ahead we needed to be at the entrance to the Ahta River in Bond Sound at noon on Thursday. Therefore, we decided to leave Pierre’s and position ourselves a little closer for an early morning launch, stopping at MacIntosh Bay in Simoom Sound.

Turns out this spot was very much to our liking. It’s cozy, but with enough little islands to explore by kayak and some great views to the Southwest and West. Plus, the skies cleared!

Explore we did. The water is very tannin; “cedar water” they call it up here. As this area is almost at the end of a long passage, there is not as much exchange of water as those anchorages in the confluence of more rapidly moving waters.

Karen checks out the local signage on the First Nation reservation

Simoom Sound, smooth as glass

The net of all this is that there was less wildlife to see in Simoom Sound. However, we were content to enjoy the marvelous scenery as we sat in the shadow of Bald Mountain, a large granite mountain whose west side is almost vertical and thus devoid of any vegetation.

Bald mountain peaks out from under the clouds

Sunset in Simoom Sound

Waddington Bay to The Burdwood Group

Now here’s a change; we awoke to sunshine, not clouds, for the first time in three days. Admittedly it was a broken layer of clouds with Old Sol doing his best to peek though, but it was sunshine, nevertheless.

It is amazing how even this little bit of sunshine lifts the spirits. Our neighbors started getting underway shortly after 9am, a signal that they too were invigorated by the change in weather. The breaks in the clouds are being fueled by increased winds driven by a distant high pressure, and there are lots of high wind warnings in the nearby straits. Back among the islands where we are, the winds are fresh but not in the gale force category that plagues the more open waters.

Our plan is to visit The Burdwood Group of Islands. They are reputed to be a great location to Kayak, and having been boat- bound for the last three days, we are looking forward to getting out and exploring.

The Burdwood Group is known as a Kayaker’s heaven. As we would soon discover, its reputation is well deserved. From a boater’s perspective, the Burdwoods offer a challenge in finding a suitable spot to anchor. Most choose to only spend the day, with a picnic on one of the shell beaches being the main attraction. We were the only boat in the Burdwoods and, with the wind and water calm, we found a small anchorage between two islets in 30 feet.

It took two attempts, but we got a good set to the anchor, secured the “snubby” and dropped another 100 feet of rode on the bottom to make certain we held.

Next, the kayaks were placed in the water, and Karen put together lunch in anticipation of some pleasant paddle stroking this afternoon. We were not disappointed.

 

Karen sets out to conquer the Burdwood Group

We weaved our way though the many small islands, interrupting the native critters as we went. In fact, when we came around one corner there were a couple of dozen seals on the beach that, when they saw Karen appear, took to the water with a great sound and flurry. They followed us for a while until we left their homestead.

A new bird was spotted, a Barrow’s Goldeneye. As we approached, mom led her chicks into the water and around behind a small outcropping of rock while dad stood guard. Finally, when the family was safe behind the rocks, he jumped into the water and joined them.

When we anchored, we were in sight of one of the two largest white shell beaches in the Group. The other is, in fact, a mirror image and lies just on the other side of the beach we could see from the boat. As we paddled back towards our boat, we stopped on that other beach and got out to set foot on firm land for the first time in about 6 days.

The Kayaks on "dry land" for the first time

Maybe this is where they got the idea for the infinity pool

Arctic Star nestled in the Burdwood Group

Just above the beach was a great Kayaker’s campsite, complete with fire pits, log “furniture” including what Karen called a breakfast bar (I simply stated that it was “The Bar”). It was easy to imagine a few Kayakers standing around in the evening sunset, beers in hand, telling tales of their adventures that day.

Can't you see a group of Kayakers gathered around this "rustic bar"

Our day ended as we watched a large seal frolic right off the boat’s bow, breaching and tail splashing like mad.

Karen stops in front of Arctic Star before we call it a day

The driftwood is always full of interesting patterns

Coves East of Seabreeze to Waddington Bay

No surprise, the fog is here as predicted by Environment Canada. In addition, there is a persistent mist that makes this morning’s prime goal staying put and inside. By noon, Karen and I were stir crazy and weighed anchor for a very brief cruise over to Waddington Bay. It was one year plus one day since we had dropped anchor in Waddington.

Another motivator of our decision to move was the forecasted increase in the winds. Waddington provides better protection in any wind.

As we approached the entrance, there were two boats just turning into the entrance from the other direction. We followed them and found one other boat, a sailboat named Ghoster, anchored in the bay. The two other power boats decided to raft together so we dropped anchor only forty yards from where we were last year.

The weather continued to be the same: foggy and misty, teetering on the verge of light rain. So for the next three hours we read, worked on this blog and I processed more pictures.

Waddington Bay foggy harbour

A few more boats joined us in the Bay, bringing the total to seven. The wind picked up as forecast and the afternoon entertainment began. The two boats that were rafted together began to drift under the influence of the winds. They separated and each sought their own individual anchorage. The latter of the two boats headed over to us and the sailboat that we were anchored upwind from. It took them three attempts to decide where they wanted to be and how to prevent themselves from being too close to our boat and the sailboat.

The machinations even brought the white-bearded captain of the sailboat out of his cozy cabin to evaluate his status relative to the large boat that was setting herself between him and the wind.

All told, one other boat drifted seriously near a rocky islet, and another decided to move to another spot across the bay. Whenever the winds blows at anchor, it always seems to start a domino effect of musical chairs as captains reposition, either voluntarily or not, to best advantage.

As Karen was preparing sandwiches for dinner, she called out to me to come and help determine what she was seeing in the water. Black, but certainly not a seal, we quickly determine that we were looking a black bear swimming between two islands. It was our first bear sighting, and continued the entertainment for the afternoon.

As the sun set, we began to see a break in the clouds in the distance. Hopefully the wind will die down as forecast and the clouds will give way to blue skies.

Lady Boot Cove to Seabreeze Cove

I slept in till 10:30 this morning. The low fog from last night has lifted but a low ceiling does remain. It is a bit colder and the pressure has risen some, so we’re hoping for clearing weather later.

Foggy morning

Our travels over to Seabreeze Cove only required an hour. It was an interesting route, through small passes and around rocks and small islands. Though not difficult, it was more interesting than some passages.

Seabreeze Cove is an interesting spot. Surrounded by little islands, you get views out from the anchorage, making the small cove seem much larger. There is plenty of room to anchor, but you must give the drying beach to the East respect as it shoals very quickly and far sooner than you might expect. We anchored in 20 feet of water on a plus 9 foot tide.

The holding was good and we settled into another lazy afternoon. Today’s temperature is hovering around 58 degrees F, making it one of the coldest days so far. Adding the overcast skies to the cooler temperatures, the afternoon looks like it will be spent tucked cozily inside Arctic Star.

Peaceful anchorage

We did spot a new bird on our approach to Seabreeze Cove. It was a Pelagic Cormorant, an all black tall bird that, according to the book we have on local birds, smells and “swims like a fish.” Fortunately, we were not close enough to confirm the odiferous traits of this species. The boat is equipped with XM Satellite Radio so I spent some time catching up on the political race as I did some minor boat-keeping chores.