Glenthorne Passage To Telegraph Harbour

Glenthorne was a millpond for all of the evening and the morning. The calm always makes for a good night’s sleep. Our neighbor hoisted sail a little before our departure. A single-handed sailor, he lifted the main, pulled the anchor and hoisted the jib. And he sat. The wind was calm and after about five minutes, he surrendered to the obvious and turned on his engine.

Our Neighbor Gets Under Way

He made his way out through the little cut and having picked up a few knots of breeze from Swanson Channel, he turned off his engine and returned to the life of a true sailor.

We, on the other hand, fired up both engines, the generator, our vast array of electronic navigation, radar and communications equipment and made our way out the long cut that is Glenthorne Passage. Having started life on the water as sailors, this mode of nautical travel, sitting in shirt sleeves in a heated cabin, coffee in one hand and the auto pilot making good the course, dims the fond memories of sailing while cold, wet and wondering when, if at all, the wind would pick up.

Karen Sits on the Foredeck as we leave Glenthorne Passage

The trip over to Telegraph Harbour was uneventful. This was one of the places we visited when we first came to British Columbia in 2004. It’s still owned by the same couple, very nice and friendly Canadians.

Karen at the gateway to the Telegraph Harbour Marina

After a walk to Marilyn’s Kutsina, Howling Wolf Farm Market, and the Golden Pot coffee roaster we launched the dinghy for a trip through “the Cut”. The Cut is a dredged ditch that bisects the island and terminates in Clam Bay. It’s just for very small boats with minimal draft. Not much to see, but something we always wanted to say we had done.

After our return passage through the Cut, we visited the local Thetis Marina Pub for an Okanagan Pale Ale on draft.

The regulars at the Thetis Marina Pub solve the World's problems

Very delightful. Those who live in the Northwest know good beer.

Karen wants me to finish my beer and get going

One of the local residents at the docks

One of our dock neighbors goes aloft to do some work

This is another reason we left the world of sailing.

Our next task is to do some laundry, followed by refilling the water tanks, making dinner and planning what we’re going to do tomorrow. Rough life, eh?

Active Cove to Satellite Cove

Last night the stars were out, but by morning we were greeted with the customary overcast skies. Although open to some wind, affected by currents and open to swells from passing large ships, Active Cove was very pleasant. We lifted anchor and made our way across to Satellite Cove on Stuart Island. As the sun came out, the wind picked up and opposed the current so we traveled in a bit of disturbed seas that were handled well by Arctic Star.

Karen was expecting to see more cruisers in Prevost Harbor, but I think the count was only four when we arrived. And our planned anchorage in Satellite Cove was empty. We dropped anchor in the middle of the cove and got a firm set of the anchor right away.

Then it was time to launch the dinghy and travel over to the county dock. This gave us access to the county road which leads to the Turn Point Light House. A visit to the lighthouse has been on the list for a few years, but the walk from Reid Harbor, the adjacent and more popular anchorage, starts with a hike up 127 steps. From there it is a three mile hike. Our plan, starting at the county dock, is only a 1.5 mile walk.

The county road would be considered somewhat rustic for vehicles, but for walking it was luxurious. Dry, wide and relatively smooth, it made for a pleasant hike.

"The" county road

Along the way we spotted a Cessna 172, with many ominous DANGER AIRCRAFT NO TRESPASSING signs. Of course, being pilots, we were intrigued. Turns out some of the residents have carved out a grass strip through the trees.

Airport carved out among the trees

One of the locals having lunch

The walk to the lighthouse is populated by deer, abandoned cars, a herd of dairy cattle, homes of some of the forty residents of the island and beautiful views overlooking Turn Point. In fact, we found one overlook we liked so well we noted its latitude and longitude so we may return with a picnic lunch in the future.

Lunch spot

The walk is flanked by a stately forest

The lighthouse is active although unmanned and automated. The original lighthouse caretaker’s house, barn and other structures have been restored and it was fun to peek in the windows. The views from the front porch must have been a fair exchange for the isolation of the assignment.

Karen hangs on to the lighthouse

The lighthouse caretaker's house

The view from the front porch of the caretaker's house

Blacktail deer grazing on the front "lawn"

Karen takes a break of the front porch before we head back

With most of the walk back being downhill, the time passed quickly. Along the way we crossed the path of a herd of wild goats. They were more skittish than the native deer. Karen then tried to call the dairy cows over to see her, but her MOO seemed unconvincing to the bovines that were more interested in munching the green stuff and attending to their calves.

"We are not amused"

Back on the boat it was time for me to make my traditional pot of chili. We pack it in multiple containers and it becomes our “easy” microwave meal when more elaborate culinary undertakings are not of interest.

Small duck at sunset

After our hike and kitchen work, we both collapsed into bed not long after sunset.

Bellingham to Active Cove, Patos Island, USA

As expected, we awoke to cloudy skies and rain showers. Those rain showers that only start when you leave the boat and promptly stop when you back inside. The first mission of the day was to return the rental car. Chara, from our charter company, Northwest Explorations arrived promptly at the designed time. That was 8AM, which meant Karen was still asleep. I felt guilty that Chara was being so kind as to follow me to the airport and give me a ride back to the marina on her “day off”.  My guilt was mitigated when she told me there were two of us utilizing her taxi service. Our departure from Bellingham was uneventful; always nice when you’re on a new boat. Although very similar to Discovery, which we have spent the last two seasons chartering, our boat this year, Arctic Star is nonetheless different. It’s a much newer version of a Grand Banks 46. Having spent the first part of its life “down south” things like an air conditioner and tinted windows signal there will be a transition period for this boat to the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Some of the transition has begun with the installation of diesel hot water heat. A must have in these climes.

I think the biggest change for this boat will be going from private ownership to life in a charter fleet. The owner did a shakedown cruise and some items have been addressed and some deferred and some yet undiscovered. Coming from Discovery, which has many years in a charter fleet and had evolved into the consummate charter vessel, Arctic Star still has some metamorphosis to do.

Not all mechanical issues have yet surfaced. We discovered that the forward bilge pump wants to run continuously when left to its own devices. The port stabilizers fin is content to do nothing, leaving its brethren on the starboard side to do all the work. While problems like those may sound major to the uninitiated, they are not unexpected on a “real world” shakedown cruise. Other items that seem trivial can have a great impact on life aboard. For example, this boat must have thirty occasional throw pillows; leaving very little room for the crew and their gear. We have exiled most of ne’er-do-well soft stowaways to the forward berth. Since Karen and I are the only crew, that will do for a two week solution. If we have another couple on board we will all be rearranging the pillows constantly looking for a place to sit or sleep.

So it goes in the life of a charter. We’re making a list for the new owners of things that don’t work and things that will make the stay aboard more pleasant for future charters, of which we count ourselves.

Back to our journey. As we progress out of Bellingham Bay the once foreboding clouds retreated giving way to a glorious day of sun. With unexpected but welcomed weather, we leisurely made our way to Patos Island. A small distinctly shaped island near the U.S. and Canadian border. Karen was worried that we would find the only two mooring balls in Active Cove taken, given that it was the beginning of the weekend. While there were two boats in the Cove when we arrived, neither had opted for either of the mooring balls. So we took the one in deeper water given that a minus two foot tide was predicted for today.

Active Cove, panorama view

After hooking up and settling in, we launched the dinghy and went exploring on the island.

Pebble beach at the end of Active Cove

Our goal was to visit the historic lighthouse at the north end of the island. It was an easy hike with wide and flat trails and the last 600 yards on a paved sidewalk, a remnant of the days when the station was manned by the Coast Guard.

Lighthouse on Patos Island

Karen stands at the northern most part of the U.S. in the San Juan islands

Survey marker from the Boundry Commission, the U.S.-Canadian border is just north of here in the water

Dinner was simple and after sunset, around 9:15, we fell into bed for a well deserved rest.

Laura Visits the Ponies

It was a beautiful Saturday. Cool yet sunny, not a drop of rain in sight. I had been searching for interesting things to do with Mom, and I came across the Ryerss Farm for Aged Equines in Pottstown, PA. This non-profit organization, founded in 1888, cares for elderly and abused horses. Knowing that Mom grew up on a ranch in Montana and rode horses to school, Bob and I thought a trip to Ryerss might be entertaining for her.

Mom was in great spirits when we picked her up after lunch. I made her bring along an old pair of shoes, knowing that we might be traipsing in muddy areas. She was so curious about why she had to bring those shoes along. We told her we were going somewhere new that was a surprise. She couldn't wait to learn where we were going!

After a nice drive through the countryside, punctuated by commentary from Laura about how pretty and green everything was, we arrived at Ryerss Farm. There were numerous pastures and many horses were plainly in view. As we drove down the winding lane to the main barn, Mom kept saying "Wow!".

Not really knowing what to expect, we got out of the car and entered the barn. Some of the 80+ horses were in their stalls, awaiting some fancy "footwork" by the farrier.

As soon as the horses saw visitors, they started to stick their heads out looking for treats. Mom had absolutely no fear of the horses, knowing exactly how to "pet" them and what to say. She was certainly in her element.

One of the volunteers spent a lot of time with us, walking us out to a nearby paddock and calling over a bunch of horses, introducing each horse and giving us each one's "backstory".

He gave Mom carrots and apples to feed the horses, so she made a lot of equine friends. She was so excited -- she held my hand the whole time but definitely determined where we went (a polite way of saying she was actually dragging me from place to place, she was so excited) and which horses were to get the most attention. She was amazed the horses were so old and yet in such good shape. Each one received detailed scrutiny and commentary. I wasn't sure how much she'd enjoy this trip, but it was a clear winner.

After about an hour on her feet walking on uneven pasture land, she started to get a little tired, so we decided to leave. The most rewarding thing? She looked at us and said "That made me feel young."  I guess you can't ask for higher praise than that!

Enjoy the photos and be sure to visit the link to Ryerss Farm if you want to learn more about the organization and the residents. http://www.ryerss.com/index.htm

Joe Cove to Waddington Bay

Joe Cove turned out to be a nice little anchorage. Our neighbors were gone when I awoke at 7:15 and we hung around till almost eleven before we weighed anchor for a short hop over to Waddington Bay.

During our travels we weaved our way around many small islands and through little passages to get to the entrance to Waddington Bay. That reflects the character of the Broughton Archipelago. It’s peppered with innumerable islands, tree covered to the waterline, steep and falling right into the water. That makes for picturesque travels but not many spots to anchor.   

So Waddington Bay is welcomed. It’s large, well protected and has many nooks and crannies to explore. We arrived shortly after noon expecting to see some boats already anchored. But we had the Bay to ourselves. So off we went in the dinghy to determine what areas would be best to explore in the kayaks at low tide.  

It wasn’t till we had the kayaks in the water and were climbing in, that one sailboat made its way into Waddington Bay. It was indeed a great place to explore with the kayaks. Karen was able to find some starfish (now properly known as sea stars, since they are not technically fish). I spotted a crab at the waters edge, a rare sight. But the most exciting was a drying passage loaded with Geoducks. The bi-valves spout jets of water into the air making it seems like you’re at the grand fountain at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.  

 Before returning to Discovery, we paddled over to the sailboat to check it out. It was a classic hull but was painted a bright green with a yellow waterline stripe; unusual, but very attractive. We struck up a conversation with the crew, Stephen and Elsie Hulsizer. They left Philadelphia in the seventies and sailed to Seattle via Boston and have made Seattle their home ever since. It turns out that Elsie is the author of Voyages to Windward, a book about sailings on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. The book, it turns out, was one I gave Karen for Christmas last year. We had a pleasant chat with Stephen and Elsie and their cat Jigger, before paddling back to Discovery to settle in for a quite night in Waddington Bay.