Satellite Cove to Winter Cove via Bedwell Harbour and Hope Bay

Getting a lazy start to our day, we departed Satellite Cove at 9:30AM, destination Bedwell Harbour to clear Canadian Customs.

This was one of the "resident" boats at Winter Cove, I never thought cement was the best idea for a boat hull

Bedwell Harbour is also the location of Poet's Cove Resort. About five years ago, some major investors transformed this location to a premier resort. We took advantage of the wine store to stock up since we are limited on the amount of alcohol we can bring in from the U.S.

We also were able to get a high speed internet connection so we spent about two hours checking on work, family, and other things in the ether.

The staff from Poet's Cove Resort meet their new guests

Normally you are supposed to only stay on the customs dock for only so long as it takes to clear, but given that only one other boat came to clear, we did not feel we were denying anyone else access to the friendly and efficient Canadian Customs service.

From Bedwell it was off to Hope Bay. It started to get overcast and a bit windy with light showers. There was no place on the docks at Hope Bay so we continued to our final anchorage in Winter Cove. We were greeted by only two other boats. A working fishing boat killing time until it was time to go catch some fish and a small sailboat. Apparently this cove is very popular in the summer and when the annual lamb roast occurs on Canada Day, the cove is set upon by hundreds of boats. We saw a picture where there were dinghies four and five-deep at the pier. I cannot imagine waking across three or four other dinghies for dinner. Certainly if you were the first in, you're the last to leave.

It was a rainy day, but later in the afternoon a strong gust front passed and we had wind gusts to 31 knots. Fortunately the passage of the front was quick and the cove settled down and we had a peaceful night.

We are very close to the Summer solstice so the days are pleasantly long. We have daylight until almost 10PM. What is surprising is you can start to see the warm glow of the rising sun starting around 3AM. Very spooky.

Active Cove to Satellite Cove

Last night the stars were out, but by morning we were greeted with the customary overcast skies. Although open to some wind, affected by currents and open to swells from passing large ships, Active Cove was very pleasant. We lifted anchor and made our way across to Satellite Cove on Stuart Island. As the sun came out, the wind picked up and opposed the current so we traveled in a bit of disturbed seas that were handled well by Arctic Star.

Karen was expecting to see more cruisers in Prevost Harbor, but I think the count was only four when we arrived. And our planned anchorage in Satellite Cove was empty. We dropped anchor in the middle of the cove and got a firm set of the anchor right away.

Then it was time to launch the dinghy and travel over to the county dock. This gave us access to the county road which leads to the Turn Point Light House. A visit to the lighthouse has been on the list for a few years, but the walk from Reid Harbor, the adjacent and more popular anchorage, starts with a hike up 127 steps. From there it is a three mile hike. Our plan, starting at the county dock, is only a 1.5 mile walk.

The county road would be considered somewhat rustic for vehicles, but for walking it was luxurious. Dry, wide and relatively smooth, it made for a pleasant hike.

"The" county road

Along the way we spotted a Cessna 172, with many ominous DANGER AIRCRAFT NO TRESPASSING signs. Of course, being pilots, we were intrigued. Turns out some of the residents have carved out a grass strip through the trees.

Airport carved out among the trees

One of the locals having lunch

The walk to the lighthouse is populated by deer, abandoned cars, a herd of dairy cattle, homes of some of the forty residents of the island and beautiful views overlooking Turn Point. In fact, we found one overlook we liked so well we noted its latitude and longitude so we may return with a picnic lunch in the future.

Lunch spot

The walk is flanked by a stately forest

The lighthouse is active although unmanned and automated. The original lighthouse caretaker’s house, barn and other structures have been restored and it was fun to peek in the windows. The views from the front porch must have been a fair exchange for the isolation of the assignment.

Karen hangs on to the lighthouse

The lighthouse caretaker's house

The view from the front porch of the caretaker's house

Blacktail deer grazing on the front "lawn"

Karen takes a break of the front porch before we head back

With most of the walk back being downhill, the time passed quickly. Along the way we crossed the path of a herd of wild goats. They were more skittish than the native deer. Karen then tried to call the dairy cows over to see her, but her MOO seemed unconvincing to the bovines that were more interested in munching the green stuff and attending to their calves.

"We are not amused"

Back on the boat it was time for me to make my traditional pot of chili. We pack it in multiple containers and it becomes our “easy” microwave meal when more elaborate culinary undertakings are not of interest.

Small duck at sunset

After our hike and kitchen work, we both collapsed into bed not long after sunset.

Bellingham to Active Cove, Patos Island, USA

As expected, we awoke to cloudy skies and rain showers. Those rain showers that only start when you leave the boat and promptly stop when you back inside. The first mission of the day was to return the rental car. Chara, from our charter company, Northwest Explorations arrived promptly at the designed time. That was 8AM, which meant Karen was still asleep. I felt guilty that Chara was being so kind as to follow me to the airport and give me a ride back to the marina on her “day off”.  My guilt was mitigated when she told me there were two of us utilizing her taxi service. Our departure from Bellingham was uneventful; always nice when you’re on a new boat. Although very similar to Discovery, which we have spent the last two seasons chartering, our boat this year, Arctic Star is nonetheless different. It’s a much newer version of a Grand Banks 46. Having spent the first part of its life “down south” things like an air conditioner and tinted windows signal there will be a transition period for this boat to the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Some of the transition has begun with the installation of diesel hot water heat. A must have in these climes.

I think the biggest change for this boat will be going from private ownership to life in a charter fleet. The owner did a shakedown cruise and some items have been addressed and some deferred and some yet undiscovered. Coming from Discovery, which has many years in a charter fleet and had evolved into the consummate charter vessel, Arctic Star still has some metamorphosis to do.

Not all mechanical issues have yet surfaced. We discovered that the forward bilge pump wants to run continuously when left to its own devices. The port stabilizers fin is content to do nothing, leaving its brethren on the starboard side to do all the work. While problems like those may sound major to the uninitiated, they are not unexpected on a “real world” shakedown cruise. Other items that seem trivial can have a great impact on life aboard. For example, this boat must have thirty occasional throw pillows; leaving very little room for the crew and their gear. We have exiled most of ne’er-do-well soft stowaways to the forward berth. Since Karen and I are the only crew, that will do for a two week solution. If we have another couple on board we will all be rearranging the pillows constantly looking for a place to sit or sleep.

So it goes in the life of a charter. We’re making a list for the new owners of things that don’t work and things that will make the stay aboard more pleasant for future charters, of which we count ourselves.

Back to our journey. As we progress out of Bellingham Bay the once foreboding clouds retreated giving way to a glorious day of sun. With unexpected but welcomed weather, we leisurely made our way to Patos Island. A small distinctly shaped island near the U.S. and Canadian border. Karen was worried that we would find the only two mooring balls in Active Cove taken, given that it was the beginning of the weekend. While there were two boats in the Cove when we arrived, neither had opted for either of the mooring balls. So we took the one in deeper water given that a minus two foot tide was predicted for today.

Active Cove, panorama view

After hooking up and settling in, we launched the dinghy and went exploring on the island.

Pebble beach at the end of Active Cove

Our goal was to visit the historic lighthouse at the north end of the island. It was an easy hike with wide and flat trails and the last 600 yards on a paved sidewalk, a remnant of the days when the station was manned by the Coast Guard.

Lighthouse on Patos Island

Karen stands at the northern most part of the U.S. in the San Juan islands

Survey marker from the Boundry Commission, the U.S.-Canadian border is just north of here in the water

Dinner was simple and after sunset, around 9:15, we fell into bed for a well deserved rest.

Laura Visits the Ponies

It was a beautiful Saturday. Cool yet sunny, not a drop of rain in sight. I had been searching for interesting things to do with Mom, and I came across the Ryerss Farm for Aged Equines in Pottstown, PA. This non-profit organization, founded in 1888, cares for elderly and abused horses. Knowing that Mom grew up on a ranch in Montana and rode horses to school, Bob and I thought a trip to Ryerss might be entertaining for her.

Mom was in great spirits when we picked her up after lunch. I made her bring along an old pair of shoes, knowing that we might be traipsing in muddy areas. She was so curious about why she had to bring those shoes along. We told her we were going somewhere new that was a surprise. She couldn't wait to learn where we were going!

After a nice drive through the countryside, punctuated by commentary from Laura about how pretty and green everything was, we arrived at Ryerss Farm. There were numerous pastures and many horses were plainly in view. As we drove down the winding lane to the main barn, Mom kept saying "Wow!".

Not really knowing what to expect, we got out of the car and entered the barn. Some of the 80+ horses were in their stalls, awaiting some fancy "footwork" by the farrier.

As soon as the horses saw visitors, they started to stick their heads out looking for treats. Mom had absolutely no fear of the horses, knowing exactly how to "pet" them and what to say. She was certainly in her element.

One of the volunteers spent a lot of time with us, walking us out to a nearby paddock and calling over a bunch of horses, introducing each horse and giving us each one's "backstory".

He gave Mom carrots and apples to feed the horses, so she made a lot of equine friends. She was so excited -- she held my hand the whole time but definitely determined where we went (a polite way of saying she was actually dragging me from place to place, she was so excited) and which horses were to get the most attention. She was amazed the horses were so old and yet in such good shape. Each one received detailed scrutiny and commentary. I wasn't sure how much she'd enjoy this trip, but it was a clear winner.

After about an hour on her feet walking on uneven pasture land, she started to get a little tired, so we decided to leave. The most rewarding thing? She looked at us and said "That made me feel young."  I guess you can't ask for higher praise than that!

Enjoy the photos and be sure to visit the link to Ryerss Farm if you want to learn more about the organization and the residents. http://www.ryerss.com/index.htm

Joe Cove to Waddington Bay

Joe Cove turned out to be a nice little anchorage. Our neighbors were gone when I awoke at 7:15 and we hung around till almost eleven before we weighed anchor for a short hop over to Waddington Bay.

During our travels we weaved our way around many small islands and through little passages to get to the entrance to Waddington Bay. That reflects the character of the Broughton Archipelago. It’s peppered with innumerable islands, tree covered to the waterline, steep and falling right into the water. That makes for picturesque travels but not many spots to anchor.   

So Waddington Bay is welcomed. It’s large, well protected and has many nooks and crannies to explore. We arrived shortly after noon expecting to see some boats already anchored. But we had the Bay to ourselves. So off we went in the dinghy to determine what areas would be best to explore in the kayaks at low tide.  

It wasn’t till we had the kayaks in the water and were climbing in, that one sailboat made its way into Waddington Bay. It was indeed a great place to explore with the kayaks. Karen was able to find some starfish (now properly known as sea stars, since they are not technically fish). I spotted a crab at the waters edge, a rare sight. But the most exciting was a drying passage loaded with Geoducks. The bi-valves spout jets of water into the air making it seems like you’re at the grand fountain at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.  

 Before returning to Discovery, we paddled over to the sailboat to check it out. It was a classic hull but was painted a bright green with a yellow waterline stripe; unusual, but very attractive. We struck up a conversation with the crew, Stephen and Elsie Hulsizer. They left Philadelphia in the seventies and sailed to Seattle via Boston and have made Seattle their home ever since. It turns out that Elsie is the author of Voyages to Windward, a book about sailings on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. The book, it turns out, was one I gave Karen for Christmas last year. We had a pleasant chat with Stephen and Elsie and their cat Jigger, before paddling back to Discovery to settle in for a quite night in Waddington Bay.

Little Nimmo Bay to Greenway Sound

We awoke in Little Nimmo Bay to big gusty SE winds and intermittent rain. Our nice calm bay now had some wavelets and even a few mini-white caps. The weather was about a 180 from the day before, something to be expected up here.

We had breakfast and waited for the helicopters from the resort to depart. One even flew low by the boat and the passengers waved.

As previously planned, we weighed anchor (and BOY was it dirty – by the time I got it washed down I was covered in mud) and then headed to the small dock in front of the lodge. It was really blowing and I wondered how we would get in there safely. Fenders out and lines at the ready, Bob greased the boat into the dock perfectly, and Nimmo Bay Resort’s owner (Craig Murphy) and another man were there to take our lines. As soon as we were secure, we were handed a hose with precious clean water to fill our tanks.

Once done, Craig boarded, took a look around and chatted with us a while. He offered the dock to us for the night, given the winds, but we decided it was time to head on to Greenway Sound. We backtracked through the narrow and rock strewn entrance to the bay and headed off, having some chili for lunch along the way. 

We had winds and some rain, but nothing penetrated our snug little boat and on we went.  We were surprised when Sullivan Bay Marina appeared – it looked like Manhattan in this wilderness area. We did a quick “drive by” in the rain but kept on going. We had been having a challenge with pumping our holding tanks – and so we called the charter operator to get some trouble shooting advice. Told us to put some liquid laundry detergent down the head with the hope being that if the pump was working we’d see bubbles next time we tried to pump it out. The thought was that the holding tank warning lights were stuck “on” and that the macerator pump had been working per usual.

We had planned to anchor in the east end of Carter Passage in Greenway Sound, but when we went in to look around, the winds were howling and there was no protection from the SE. So we decided the better part of valor was to head for Greenway Sound Marina (a large, U-shaped totally floating marina – not connected to land at all) and tie up for the night.

Once again, Bob made a perfect docking approach and Tom Taylor, the owner of the marina, grabbed our lines and told us the winds had really been howling all day. We were one of 5 boats in total, as the season was well winding down.  Tom and his wife Ann were really welcoming, and though their restaurant had closed for the season, we were able to snag some leftover desserts (cheesecake for Bob and a Nanaimo bar for me). There was also great internet service and some goodies in their store. We had tested the “bubbles” only to know that the head was still not working, so it was time to call Brian at Northwest Explorations again.

He had Bob do some trouble shooting (to no avail), so a mechanic was to arrive here on Monday afternoon to fix the issue. We had delicious pork tenderloin and rice pilaf for dinner and took some time to relax. Greenway Sound Marina is up for sale, and we surely hope the new owners are as nice as Tom and his wife Ann. This is a truly lovely spot.

Monday dawned without the SE winds – the area became so calm vs. the day before! After doing laundry, dumping garbage, and buying some provisions, we launched the dinghy and went over to the dinghy dock at the base of the trail to Broughton Lake. This trail is managed by the BC parks service, and Tom had told us it was a great hike up to the lake. Bob had all his photo gear in his backpack, grabbed a walking stick and off we went. The trail was lovely and well-marked, but narrow and slippery in many places. We saw one super-huge Pacific slug, a tree frog and a snake, but no bears. That was fine with me. We took some nice photos at the lake, and started to walk to the next lake along “corduroy” logging roads, but they were so slick we were afraid of injury and turned back. We were gone about 3 hours total. The rainforest is so dense, it’s like you are in a cathedral of trees. The moss formations are amazing.  

Karen and Bob at the Head of the Logging Trail (The nice bear took the picture)

  

Nice Rainforest Trail

The mechanic wasn’t able to make it (long story), so Brian, our charter company owner, arranged to be here Tuesday morning via float plane from Campbell River to address the head issue. We decided to just relax and have a peaceful night.

Tuesday dawns to…FOG. We knew Brian’s plane would likely be late, so we took it easy and got a tour of another boat docked at Greenway, a 54’ Bracewell Pacesetter. Very nice boat, with a “dinghy garage” so the dinghy is actually stored inside what would normally be the lazarette area in the stern of the boat. Three staterooms and even an exercise bike on the flybridge. What fun!!

We saw the resident blue heron as well as a very inquisitive seal that kept eyeing us as we sat on the bench at the end of the U-shaped dock and looked out over the water, awaiting the sound of a seaplane’s engine.

11:15 – Brian’s plane arrives!! Apparently they had to work hard to find a way into Greenway due to the fog, they actually touched down on the water near Minstrel Island and waited an hour for the fog to dissipate. Boy, were we happy to see him!

 To the Rescue

While Bob and Brian worked on the (smelly) head, I sat outside in the sun a while reading and then went over to chat with Ann at the marina office. We had a nice chat, but then the boys arrived looking glum and using Tom’s phone to call for more “head” advice.

Brian (a.k.a. Dr. Poop hard at work)

To make a long story short, about 2pm they found the issue – the “culprit” was the brass thru-fitting on the standpipe and vent pipe – it was corroded. There were several holes in each pipe. So the pump sucked in air instead of drawing from the holding tank. Bob and Brian gingerly cleaned it (it was fragile) and sealed the holes with sealant and self-fusing repair tape…and after cleaning out the bilge areas to clear out any remaining detritus, we were up and running again. Yea!

Tom helped Brian get a flight out, and Ken Smith, the owner of the 54’ Pacesetter we had toured earlier in the morning, asked us if we wanted to go fishing. He had been awaiting guests from Seattle via floatplane but the fog kept them away. We had planned to leave for Laura Cove, but the idea of going out fishing (in his 22’ fishing boat) was too good to pass up. We left around 5pm and had a blast, setting crab pots and fishing, though we only caught four small rockfish that we tossed back. We returned to Greenway Sound Marina about 8:30 as it was getting dark, and I bought another yummy Nanaimo Bar from Tom before heading to Discovery for the night.

What A Grand Way to Start September

It’s a get up late, lazy start to the day. One of the captains from the trio of boats rafted up in the cove with us came over in his dingy. “Hand me your camera, I’ll take a picture of your boat with the fog in the background”, he said. So I did and off he went. Either he was a very kind soul, or a clever camera thief.

Our Canadian Photographer Friend Composes his next Shot

Five minutes later he returned with some nice photos of Discovery in Turnbull Cove, our first overnight anchorage.

Discovery in Turnbull Cove as the Fog Lifts

We planned a short trip over to Little Nimmo Bay, home of the Little Nimmo Bay Resort. They specialize in helicopter fishing, hiking and adventures. A seven day “adventure” costs about $14,000. On our way, we saw several seals playing and a few hauled out on a low-tide rocky patch or two. The entrance to Little Nimmo Bay looks wide and clear, but the charts make it very evident that it is fraught with underwater bugaboos. Thanks to Nobeltec (our computer based, GPS navigation system) and a good eye, we made it inside the bay without incident. After anchoring and enjoying a delicious Karen lunch, I call the resort to see if we could visit the facility. They welcomed us and we got a tour of the facility. It was indeed one of the nicest wilderness resorts we have been to so far. Next year is starting to book up fast so go to www.nimmobay.com/ and book your trip.

Little Nimmo Bay Resort

The pictures do not do it justice. The waterfall, which you cannot see in the photos, is the lifeblood of the facility. It provides fresh water and hydro-power for nine months of the year. In fact, they had just turned on the generator a few days ago. The resort is into “Sustainability” and leaving a minimal impact on the land. During our walk around, the owner arrived, via ‘copter. We later met him and spent an hour talking about the history of the facility, boating in the Northwest and all manner of other topics. He’s interested is getting a boat for he and his wife to enjoy in the area, so we invited him onboard Discovery to check out a GrandBanks 46. We set up a rendezvous for the next morning after the helicopters leave with the guests for a day of fishing and what not. In exchange, he offered to let us fill up our water tanks from his waterfall. Good deal for all. We explored little Nimmo Bay and the adjacent Big Nimmo Bay by dinghy.

Guests Return in the Last of the Three 'Copters After a Day of Adventure

It was a perfect day, the clouds retreated and the sun made an appearance. The jackets came off and it was grand. The owner of the resort said that everything this year is three weeks late, so we might be enjoying some mid-August-like weather today.

Karen with Discovery in the background, Little Nimmo Bay

It continued to get nicer as the hours passed and we were able to enjoy dinner up on the aft fly-deck, sans jackets; something we can never remember doing up here in the Northwest. We even had the opportunity to do some stargazing after the sun set. We’ll see what tomorrow brings, but whatever it is, we know the weather will change.

Our Travels Begin

After two days in route, we have arrived at the gateway to the Broughton Archipelago, Port McNeill. Our trip started with a 13-hour marathon from Washington’s Reagan Airport through Toronto on to Vancouver an then a jump over to Nanaimo. Air Canada, with the help of Mother Nature, did a great job. No delays, courteous service, no lost bags and comfortable seats. Still 13 hours and crossing three time zones makes for an exhausting day.

Nanaimo Harbor (Make that Harbour)

We spent the night in Nanaimo, before beginning our trek up the East coast of Vancouver Island to Port McNeill. Our travels North began with a provisioning mission. First, to the Chandlery to pick up some deodorizer for the boat’s head, then to local grocery store stock up on non-perishables and finally the mandatory visit to the liquor store. Our reasoning was that we would have the best selection and lower prices if we did most of our shopping in the “big city”, leaving the perishables and frozen purchases to just before we board the boat at Port McNeill.

 There is one road north and it’s a four hour drive. We broke it up with a lunch stop at the Laughing Gul pub at Schooner Cove located at Nanoose Bay. And two more hours up the road we did a slight sojourn over to The Old Country Market in Coombs. Best known for the “Goats on the Roof”, they also have the most remarkable selections of gourmet and specialty foods from all over the world. So we stocked up some more. However, we were heart broken that we could not take advantage of the awesome selection of cheeses, fresh baked breads, and one-of-a-kind meats.

Now back to those “Goats on the Roof”. Yes the store is covered with a green grass roof populated by a small family of goats. Why, I have no idea, but it is certainly memorable and all the signs by the side of the road direct you to the “Goats on the Roof” with no mention of the store’s “real” name. If you ever find yourself in the area, it’s a must do. For more information visit: http://www.oldcountrymarket.com/history.html.

All the guidebooks talk about our route as being a road that gets smaller and “more rugged” as you go north. They also remind you to look for deer and bear along the way. Well, having spent some time in the area, we did not expect to see either. The animals tend to stay away from man, and highways are not their favorite. There were signs for deer crossing and lots of signs for elk crossing. But none of the named critters made an appearance. Imagine our surprise when traveling along the four lane, divided highway portion of route 19, a very large black bear bounded across our two lanes, jumped over the concrete-divided median like an Olympic hurdler, and continued with great speed across the oncoming two lanes. Fortunately for all, we and the trucker in the right lane saw him in time to slow down and the opposing traffic also had time to slow and let the bear pass. And that’s pretty much what you can expect up here whether on land or water. You always find the unexpected, the delightful surprise and that’s why we like it so much.

Karen at Port McNeil

 We’re staying at the Black Bear “resort” in Port McNeill. It is by no means a resort, but it is a new 2 story motel that has clean rooms and a comfy king size bed for us, which is all we need. After checking in around 6:30pm, we drove to the harbor, which is really more of a walk (the town is small). We saw some interesting boats and had fun walking the docks. Karen’s eyes lit up and, spying a red tabby cat on a sailboat, she yelled “KITTY!”  The cat sprang to life, leaving the cozy cockpit to run out of the boat, jump on the dock, and demand serious petting by us both. The cat’s owner, who lives on the boat in Port McNeill year-round, told us the cat was 9 years old and named Rusty.

Then, off to dinner at the Sportsman’s Steak House, overlooking the harbor. We saw a nice sunset through breaks in the clouds and had a great meal.

2007 British Columbia

The Broughtons are our target for this year.

Hang'em High

Or how I spent my New Years Holiday.

What do you do when you have the head of a very large animal to hang "in the house"? Spousal distress is high, but the team of Bob and Larry was not to be distracted from the mission at hand. With ladders under us, and a determination to welcome the newest member of the family into the household, we tried all cardinal points of the compass to find the optimal location for the trophy. East wall, then West, then North and South; each was a candidate. We would climb, head in hand, and hold the proud mount while the females would stand back and move about studying the proposal from all angles before pronouncing their verdict. A decision was made and now when you enter the home of Pris and Larry. The prize of the mighty hunter greets you, its welcoming message left to the imagination of the guest.

Reid Harbor to Friday Harbor

Reid Harbor to Friday Harbor: 12.1 NM

With the boat due back by noon, we left at 9:30 in the rain for our trip back to Friday Harbor. It rained pretty much the entire way, though not too heavily. It was kind of windy and cold…an omen? Of course.

Just as we get ready to enter the harbor, Bob took a potty break and when he came back, the starboard engine throttle cable had cut loose again. He jumped into the engine room and got the engine into idle while I manned the helm.

After a quick (but very expensive) fuel up, we put Best of Times back into her slip and started to get all our stuff off the boat. We had to buy a Styrofoam container and ice for all the frozen salmon we had left over. A quick lunch at Herb’s (great burgers) and then off on our charter flight to Boeing Field, where we caught ground transportation to Redmond to see some friends.

It was a fabulous vacation, one that hopefully will linger in our minds as winter approaches and the days grow shorter on the East Coast.

Fossil Bay to Reid Harbor

Fossil Bay, Sucia Island to Jones Island: 10.8NM 

Jones Island to Reid Harbor: 7.1NM 

Our last full day on the boat. Sigh. 

We decided to explore Sucia a little, so we walked some nice trails over to Shallow Bay, where I had initially wanted to overnight.  

 

Karen and the park sign listing the yacht clubs that bought the island and gave it to the park service. 

 

Best of Times in Fossil Bay, Sucia Island. 

But we were on minus tides, so Shallow Bay just would have been too shallow for comfort. It looked like a great place for sunsets. 

 

Karen overlooks Shallow Bay. Lots of mud at low tide. 

Spur of the moment, I suggested we head for Jones Island, another Marine Park that was about an hour way. I had read that it was a nice place, and we had nothing better to do. 

As always, the park dock was full, so we got another mooring ball and went ashore in the dinghy. What a lovely place. The island is well kept and has great “lawns” on both the north and south ends of the island with picnic facilities and campsites. The island suffered a major blow down of large trees in a 2000 storm, and many have been left to decompose in place. It makes for an eerie sight.  

 

Karen poses with uprooted trees from the "big blow" on Jones Island. 

We took the southwest trail, which was a gorgeous walk along the southwest side of the island. A narrow but nice trail, it stayed very close to the water with some precipitous drops. I had read that Jones Island had tame deer, but didn’t expect to see one. We saw a small doe that came right out of the forest to greet us and walked within 10 feet of us. I was torn between wanting to make friends and wanting to shun it for all the damage its brethren do to our trees and plants back in Philadelphia. 

 

Tame deer on Jones Island. 

We had a quick lunch, and then left for Stuart Island and Reid Harbor, our last anchorage for the trip.  

It was a quick motor to Reid, we snagged a mooring ball, and spent most of the evening packing and cleaning up the boat. Bob made shrimp scampi for dinner with prawns from Canada….another great meal. 

 

Karen settles in for an evening of reading in the pilothouse.  

 

Sunset in Reid Harbor.

Genoa Bay to Fossil Bay

  Genoa Bay to Roche Harbor: 20.6NM

Roche Harbor to Matia Bay: 16.7NM

Matia Bay to Fossil Bay: 2.4NM

Up early in Genoa Bay to head for Roche Harbor and re-entry into the good old USA. We left about 9am for the 1 hour and 40 minute passage, seeing lots of great scenery and wildlife along the way.

Of course, as you might imagine, things don’t always go according to plan. As we got close to Roche Harbor, Bob took a potty break and left me at the helm. When he came back, he asked if I had slowed the boat down (which I hadn’t). Son of a gun! The starboard engine was stuck at 1800 RPMs. We had lost throttle control on that engine. Bob had to shut it down and glide onto the customs dock with just one engine (not really a big deal, it just sounds really cool). We were lucky that Customs wasn’t too busy and there was space for us without having to wait.

Bob cleared Customs while I tried to raise the charter company on the phone. It was a comedy of errors. Bob had the better luck. The Customs agent actually searched the boat, making Bob and I stand on the dock. Not sure what contraband he was seeking, but he did confiscate our lemon, lime and 2 jalapeno peppers. He also said heartily “Welcome back to the United States!” That was actually nice to hear!

Bob got tired of waiting for the call from the charter company so he went down into the engine room and found the throttle arm had detached from the engine. Hmmm…after cursing a blue streak because there were some missing bolts and tight fit issues, he got the boat up and running and we gladly left for Sucia and Matia islands.

Sucia means “foul” in Portuguese. Not foul as in odor, but foul as in “reef-strewn”. Need to watch your navigating around Sucia. But first we went to Matia Island, a nearby wildlife preserve. It was nice in Rolfe Cove and we snagged a mooring ball, as the dock was full. We had lunch and went ashore for a great walk around the island.

Best of Times snugged to a mooring ball in Matia Bay.

Docks at Matia Bay, Best of Times in Background.

Karen in old growth tree on Matia.

Old growth trees are truly massive.

We chatted with the folks on the dock for a while and teased the owners of the Nordhavn 40 about waxing their boat at the dock on such a lovely day. What dedication! Now, off to Sucia, where we caught a mooring ball in Fossil Bay. We just hung out on the boat and did a little pre-packing in anticipation of turning the boat in on Friday.

That was after we had to move the mooring ball from the back of the boat to the front in the howling wind. In a powerboat like ours, it’s easiest to boathook the mooring ball and attach a line from the stern. But because all boats ride best with their bow into the wind, you need to “walk” the ball around to the front. Not usually an issue unless the wind is howling. Bob inherited that job as I lacked the upper body strength to do it! We read and rested a bit, then had a lovely salmon dinner and an early evening.

Glenthorne Passage Genoa Bay

Glenthorne Passage to Fulford Harbor: 9.3NM 

Fulford Harbor to Genoa Bay: 11.5NM 

 Our trip is winding down, as we have to have Best of Times back to Friday Harbor in the U.S. by Friday morning. We also had to drop off the kayak (affectionately called “the canoe” by me) on SaltSpring Island today. So we took one more morning kayak in Glenthorne Passage, We went at low tide, which is definitely the most interesting. There were gobs and gobs of the purple starfish, crammed into newly exposed crevasses as the water receded. A few orange ones were seen here and there, but not a lot.  

 

Looking back up Glenthorne Passage from our anchorage. 

 We kayaked along the shore of Secret Island, which has cabins with small docks, and said hi to a resident who thought it was a terrific day to enjoy kayaking. He was right. As we headed toward the head of the cove and the private dock there, I thought I saw a dog on the dock watching us. Guess what? It was a big seal. He was high and dry on the dock, sunning himself. We approached stealthily and he watched us intently. Not threatened or unhappy, just alert. He scooted to the other side of the dock when we got close, but as we went around to the other side of the dock, he just sat there, craning his neck from time to time to see what we were up to. He reminded me of my cat Aspen. If he can’t see us, he must be hidden, right? Wrong!  

 We kept on kayaking and Bob pointed out a blue heron just feet away on the rocks, blended so well into the background that you could hardly notice him. How beautiful is all this wildlife? 

 On our way back to the boat, another boater said hello and “it’s a great day for kayaking, eh?”  All those Canadian “eh” jokes appear to be warranted. Really nice folk, they just say “eh” like we say “uh” or “huh” or “right” or “yes”.  

 

Picture perfect in the Kayak. 

 We decided to drop off the kayak in Fulford Harbor where the kayak place was located rather than going back to Ganges. We did this because we’d never been to Fulford and it sounded nice in the plethora of guidebooks you need for a trip like this. We found the tiny dock that abutted the kayak rental place and stayed there for 2 hours while we had a great lunch and reprovisioned at the local store. 

 Not content to linger, we headed to Genoa Bay for the night. Another spot in the guidebooks, it sounded lovely and like a nice marina, as we were ready to tie to a dock and have some shore power for the evening. Pretty place, nice docks, and an apparent convention of Nordic and American Tugs, by the look of it. Bob and I walked the docks, looking at the boats and some very nice boathouses, and I remarked that all we needed to make it a perfect day was a kitty. 

 Needless to say, ask and ye shall receive. There was a small art gallery on the docks, and the woman who ran it had a lovely 18 year old Maine Coon named Toby. This cat was so affectionate, I sat on the floor and it came over and sprawled out next to me and let me pet it for 20 minutes or so. Every time I stopped, Toby butted me with his head and convinced me to keep rubbing his jowls and his ears. This was fun! 

 Tonight we’re off to dinner at the restaurant just up from the docks and then tomorrow we’re off to Roche Harbor to clear U.S. customs and get ourselves back into the States.

Pirate's Cove to Glenthorne Passage

Pirate’s Coveto Princess Cove: 13NM  

Princess Cove to Glenthorne Passage: 10.3NM 

We had heard that holding was poor in Pirate’s Cove, and that anchors had a tendency to drag, but we were snug with our well-set anchor and stern tie. It was a hazy, cloudy morning, and we were in no hurry to move along, so we took the dinghy over to one of the two dinghy docks to hike a bit. 

   

Pirate's Cove complete with a treasure chest. 

 

Someone took the time to hand paint the welcome sign at Pirate's Cove. 

Pirate’s Cove has been a marine park since 1966, and it has wonderful trails that are easy to walk and really pretty. We walked to the other side of the island where some kayakers were making camp.  There are nice campsites and I am always amazed how clean the outdoor toilets are and how there’s always toilet paper. Guess those park hosts keep pretty busy. 

 

The B.C. parks maintain a nice infrastructure. Take a look at these nice stairs to a campsite on a beautiful little bay. 

 We went back to the boat and decided to depart. It was a bit crazy again, as the wind wanted to blow us into the concrete park host floating dock while we scurried to haul in the stern tie and get the anchor up. Captain Bob came through again, and off we went, back through the tricky entrance (at low tide you can really see those dangerous reefs) and out into deep water again. 

 

Best of Times in Pirates Cove.  

 

Trawler enjoying a peaceful, secluded anchorage on the south side of the island. 

Our agenda was to stop at Wallace Island, a favorite from our last trip. I had decided that we’d anchor in Princess Cove and have lunch aboard before doing some exploring. Another shallow and interesting entrance behind us, we snagged a great spot to anchor and had lunch while we watched other boats come and go. It was fairly low tide, so it seemed like a great time to kayak. 

The kayaking was just so-so until we noticed the rocks that are part of the reef guarding the entrance to Princess Cove. As we headed that way, we heard lots of snorting. Yes, there were seals! We were able to get within 75 feet or so of a bunch of seals sunning themselves on the rocks. The younger ones were a bit unsure of us, but the two big bull seals just stared at us with pretended indifference as we snuck closer (“snuck” being a tough thing for a bright yellow kayak to do). The seals were really funny, they liked to swim near and check us out, and then zip away to a safe distance. We even saw one seal get a mouthful of water and spit it directly onto another one’s face. Just like kids! 

We headed to Prevost Island and Glenthorne Passage for the night. I was anxious to check out this anchorage as we had enjoyed Annette Inlet earlier in the trip. The anchorage was absolutely lovely and there were only 4 boats at the head of the cove. Quiet and peaceful, it was a lovely evening.

Nanaimo to Pirate's Cove

Nanaimo to Pirate’s Cove: 11.9NM

Bob sacked in on Sunday and didn’t get moving til around 9am. Can’t say that I blame him!

 Our agenda for the day was to check out the large chandlery in Nanaimo and then to scout out Newcastle Marine Park directly across from Nanaimo before heading south. It was a worthwhile decision to spend this extra time in Nanaimo. Usually we are simply heading north or south and had not taken the time to explore the area.

 The Chandlery was heaven for Bob, well stocked with all things marine and a wonderful place to find whatever is needed. What was needed for us was “head deodorizer”, the important chemicals you put into the holding tanks to avoid the nauseous sewage gasses that can arise when the toilets are flushed. What a difference that stuff makes to happy boat living!

 We went to lunch on the dock right near our boat, at a place called Penny’s Palapas. We had smelled the Mexican food from there all afternoon on Saturday, and finally caved in, expecting very little. It’s an open-air café on the dock, open sunrise to dusk, with a tiny kitchen. You order up at the “kitchen” and wait for the food to be delivered. How good could it be?

 It was superb. I had halibut tacos that were out of this world, and Bob had a chicken burrito that had him sighing with pleasure.

 Well fortified, I convinced Captain Bob to lower the dinghy so that we could go explore Newcastle Island Marine Park. This is a 750-acre marine park that we had heard was lovely. It was just a quick dinghy ride from Nanaimo across the harbor to the park.

Karen says "Hi" to the concierge at Newcastle Park.

Needless to say, Newcastle lived up to its billing. There were wonderful campsites and picnic sites, and well maintained paths throughout the island. We “hiked” the shoreline trail that kept us in view of the water and views out across the Strait of Georgia. It was sunny and warm, and I had on my shorts for the first time all season.

Karen hunting for the perfect shell at Newcastle.

 We spent a pleasant 90 minutes or so walking around this island. While we didn’t see any, the island is also famous for champagne colored raccoons. We saw a picture of them and they are really cool looking.

 

Loooking back to Nanaimo from Newcastle Park.

The term "beach" in B.C. most often refers to solid granite.

Many of the granite "beaches" are lovely.

Karen points to the last visable sign of a sailboat that tried to take a shortcut into Nanaimo.

 Back across the bay and time to depart for the south, catching the slack tide at Dodd Narrows again.

 As we depart the harbor of Nanaimo, we spotted a Dockwise yacht transport vessel preparing to load its cargo. Yachts that is.

Trawler waits its turn to "sail" into the Dockwise transport ship.

 The ship will flood its tanks, lowering itself about 16 feet. Then the "cargo" can float in.

Come on in, the water's fine!

Once there, a cradle is placed under each vessel and the Dockwise ship pumps out its ballast tanks lifting the cargo out of the water, safe and secure for a long passage to another continent. It saves a long and possibly dangerous ocean passage for the smaller boats and is a popular way to reposition your boat for another season.

Now, on to Dodd Narrows. It amazes us that so few boats take the time to announce their intentions at this narrow dogleg passage. It serves them all right if they meet a large boat head on in there.

 We, of course, followed proper protocol and soon were headed to Pirate’s Cove Marine Park on DeCourcy Island. We had planned to stop there on the way north, but the flood from the water tanks led us to overnight in Ganges instead. So we wanted to check this place out.

 It has a tricky reef-strewn entrance that, while well marked, gets your attention. You have to follow a range into the cove, and then hang a hard left to stay between two marks to avoid other shoals.

Narrow entrance into Pirate’s Cove.

A good look at the rocks that are marked by the channel buoys and why you must be careful and follow the course defined by the published entrance.

 We did that without a problem, but the cove was much smaller than we thought and it was crowded. We had to drop anchor before our stern tie equipment was ready, and we suffered for it. I think we entertained the entire cove with our shenanigans. I lost the will to explore and simply hung out in the boat for the evening. Bob made killer food, salmon marinated in honey and balsamic and sherry and Dijon…it was wonderful. A good night after all!

Grace Harbour to Nanaimo

Grace Harbor to Nanaimo: 76.9NM 

Another day in paradise.  Listened to the marine forecast and it was an all systems go for our trip back toward Pender Harbor in preparation for our crossing the Strait of Georgia. The previous two days of gale force winds had blown out, and our transit was in very very calm water. The way I like it best.  

We saw tons of seals along the way, eyeing us disdainfully. They’re pretty cute. A few were frolicking and kicking up waves. Mostly the passage was long, but we decided to keep going and get across the strait to Nanaimo and spend the night. That way, weather became pretty much a non-issue for the rest of our trip.  

While I was making grilled ham and cheese sandwiches, Bob saw this huge blue-hulled ship with a helicopter on the stern being circled by a float plane at low altitude. Apparently, someone was deployed in the boat’s dinghy, taking photos of the ship and the plane…wow!  

We came into Nanaimo and were assigned a great slip near the wharfinger’s office (called a harbor master in the U.S.) and the laundry. Did some laundry and walked the docks, looking at boats. Tried to convince Bob to make salmon, but instead ended up at the Wesley Street bistro, which was another great culinary adventure. We explored Nanaimo’s Old City while walking to the restaurant, and have decided to do some more exploring tomorrow before departing to the south.

Melanie Cove to Grace Harbor

Melanie Cove to Grace Harbor: 12NM

It was still a bit windy in the morning, so we decided to forego the kayaking and try the dinghy instead. I wanted to check out nearby Laura Cove for future visits, as it is highly recommended. So Bob took the dinghy and got it up on a plane, so that it wasn’t bouncing too badly.

Navigator Karen, checking another spot "around the bend".

We zipped around in Prideaux Haven and then over to Laura Cove. Laura Cove is nice, but I think Melanie Cove is nicer, so we filed that information away and headed back to the boat.

Today was going to be leisurely, with a visit to private Mink Island to see if the small anchorage there was appealing before heading over to Grace Harbor to anchor for the night. It was mostly calm by now, so the motoring was uneventful and smooth. Mink Island is a cute little island that has private docks and moorings. Lots of signs announcing that not only are fires prohibited, but so are dogs and other non-residents. Not a bad place to stop for lunch, but probably not an overnight we’d be interested in.

As we headed for Grace Harbor, Bob mentioned that he couldn’t believe it was supposed to be another gale force warning day on the Strait of Georgia, as it was so calm where we were. Well, as we approached the turnoff for Malaspina Inlet, the white caps started to appear and the wind began to blow. We were happy to make the turn into the inlet, where it was lumpy but not annoyingly so.

Grace Harbor is a well protected harbor that had lots of boats in it, though it wasn’t crowded. We had lunch and decided to kayak over to the landing at the marine park. We took a nice hike to a freshwater lake, running into folks headed that way with towels and soap. If you don’t have a way to store enough water on your boat for freshwater showers, it’s not a bad way to stay clean. The lake was really peaceful and had a nice large ledge about a foot under water, a great place to sit and lather up (with biodegradable environmentally ok soap, of course)!

We had to get back to the boat for our next adventure, which was to dinghy 4 miles down Malaspina Strait to the Laughing Oyster restaurant for dinner. I had heard of this restaurant for several years, and decided it was time to visit. We had heard that they had some space for visiting boats, but we thought we’d like Grace Harbour better, so decided to make the trek in the dinghy instead. We scheduled an early dinner so that we could dinghy home in the waning daylight. Bob had his portable GPS and had plotted in our course, so that going and coming back would be relatively carefree.

The ride started out smooth, but quickly became very bumpy and lumpy. In the bow and up on the plane, I was getting hammered. Bob decided to slow down, and that’s when we managed to get the dinghy rope entangled in the prop. Luckily, it was just a tiny bit, he was able to work it free, and we continued on our way. Still, bouncing about in the inlet with wave and wind action and no handheld VHF radio, you quickly realize that if this had been a serious problem, boats passing by were few and far between. Note to self: get that portable VHF radio for the next trip.

When we got to the docks at Okeover Landing, where the restaurant was located, the floating docks were surging up and down in the waves and wind. The docks were completely full of small runabouts and fishing craft, and we had to work hard to find a place for our dinghy. All the boats were rubbing together as they surged up and down, and we were extremely glad that we hadn’t brought Best of Times over to this landing.

The "docks" at the Laughing Oyster. Now I know why the mollusk is so jovial.

So we get ashore….and there is absolutely no signage for this restaurant. We decide to walk up the hill and see a place that might be the restaurant…and it was! From the outside, you don’t expect much, but inside, you can tell it’s going to be good. The food was absolutely fantastic, as were the views from the restaurant deck. We had a great meal, then prepared to dinghy home. I held that darned dinghy line in my hand the whole way home to avoid an encore. It was less bumpy going home as the wind and waves had died down some.

The million-dollar views from the Laughing Oyster. That last mountain peak is about 90 miles away.

As we entered the harbor, we detoured around a large and lovely Royal Passagemaker anchored alone in a secluded spot before we headed for the boat. We were just in time to get some lovely pictures of the pink sky at sunset. Another great day in paradise.

Sunset in Grace Harbor. "Red sky at night, sailor's delight."

Roscoe Bay to Melanie Cove

Roscoe Bay to Refuge Cove: 4.3NM

Refuge Cove to Melanie Cove: 8.6NM

Awoke to another great day in Roscoe Bay. Got out the kayak and tooled around, checking out the drying shoal and the head of the bay and all the boats along the way.

Best of Times in Roscoe Bay.  

Best of Times as viewed from the Kayak.

During our travels we noticed a unique from of art. Small rocks piled up on other rocks at or near the shore. We thought they might be there to indicate unmarked hazards.

Roscoe has more than its share of "rock art"  

Perhaps they simply marked that a person has passed this way. Most are simple structures, comprised of a few rocks balanced to stand the test of time, but without meaning we could decipher.

However, one composition did catch our eye.

A creative hand, or an enlarged self-image?

 We decided to head out to Refuge Cove to reprovision a bit before heading over to Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven for the night.

Refuge Cove was hopping. As we left Roscoe Bay, it was rather windy and there were some waves and white caps. When we got to the docks, there wasn’t a lot of room, but Bob decided to wedge the boat into a spot that meant that the prevailing wind was going to try and blow us off the dock, not onto it. Not only did he do a great job of docking, but also, as I tossed the stern line to the nice fellow on the dock, it turned out to be the guy from Coyote Blue, recipient of our salmon the day before!

 He told us that it was supposed to really blow hard that night and that gale force winds were forecast for both Johnstone Strait and the Strait of Georgia. Hmm. We went to provision, found great stuff, and while our friends on Coyote Blue decided to stay at the dock for the evening, we headed over to Melanie Cove as originally planned.

The store at Refuge Cove.

 Bob said that MC would be sheltered from the winds. To my eye, it looked as if, while sheltered, the winds would still whip down the cove. Wonder who was right?

There were lots of boats in Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove, the two quintessential anchorages in Desolation Sound. Still, there was more than enough room for us and we set the anchor well in case the wind picked up.

 I wanted to go kayaking, but Bob wanted to chill out first. By the time we climbed into the kayak, it was blowing pretty good. Our “upwind” paddle was painfully hard, and it started to rock and roll a bit as we left Melanie Cove for Prideaux Haven. We cut our kayak short and headed back for the boat. Well, going downwind was really fun. We were smoking along, doing warp speed without moving our paddles at all. In fact, we held the paddles out as if they were mini-sails and grinned all the way back to the boat.

Oh yes…it blew hard that night! And rained sometime overnight as well!

Dent Island to Roscoe Bay

Dent Island Lodge to Walsh Cove: 21.1NM 

Walsh Cove to Roscoe Bay: 8.3NM 

We awoke to a lovely day, which meant that Ann and Doug were going to have a fog-free morning to fish. We took it easy and prepared the boat for our departure, which was to be around 1pm when the next 2 sets of rapids were near slack. We hung out at the lodge, paid the bill, played with the kitties (Miss Kitty and Twitch), and finagled two amazing home made chocolate chip cookies from the caretaker. 

 

Dent Island dining room. 

 

Dent Island Bar. 

 

Dent Island Library. 

I had a little more luck shopping the fresh salmon around today, but still have a refrigerator and freezer full. 

 

Miss Kitty gets some laptime before we depart Dent Lodge. 

As we were eating lunch aboard, Ann and Doug returned, having caught their limit of 4 Chinook and a variety of Coho that they had to release. Good for them! 

As slack approached, we noticed a line up of boats wanting to come into Dent Island’s docks, so we took off to make room. We were sad to leave, but looking forward to more adventures elsewhere. We didn’t get too far before we had a scary moment when Bob said we had lost the steering on the boat (right in the middle of the first thankfully slack rapid). I won’t tell the tale, but we figured it out quickly and continued on our way. 

 

The local Chevy. The preferred mode of transport of the locals. Covered and warm, fast and rugged, made from welded aluminium. 

It was sunny and bright and calm, and we had a peaceful passage down to Walsh Cove Marine Park. I had planned on overnighting here, but after we checked it out, we felt that it was more of a lunch stop than a good place to anchor and kayak. So we continued on to Roscoe Bay, a lovely place that we had visited last year. Roscoe is known for the drying shoal in the entrance. You can only enter or leave when the tide is rising, otherwise you’re a bit landlocked. 

 

Narrow entrance into Roscoe Bay over the drying bar. 

We arrived at the entrance at 4pm and quickly figured out that we were a bit early. After chatting up a few small boats that were going by and asking them to read their least depth when crossing the shoal, we figured out that by 5pm we could enter safely. I stood out on the bowsprit, looking intently for rocks. I clearly saw the bottom, but nothing too close, and our least depth was only 8.7 feet. 

We found a great place to stern tie and settled in for the evening. It was fun to watch others come into the bay and go through the stern tying and anchoring drill.  

 

Best of Times secure in Roscoe Bay. 

We have these nifty transmitters that we wear with headsets that look like something a receptionist might wear, so that we can communicate while out of line of sight of each other while anchoring or docking. Most folks don’t have them, so they yell at each other and it’s really amusing. 

That night, we had to have salmon. I reminded Bob that Salmon and pasta work together, and he made this amazingly killer salmon gorgonzola over penne pasta that was so fabulous it brought tears to my eyes. Who needs to eat ashore with this type of food? 

 

Sunset in Roscoe Bay.